Who here is really proud of their mainsheet system? I am looking at options for mainsheet blocks and would like to see what you guys use.

I am not really looking for a 8:1 versus a 10:1 debate, but the actual hardware configurations. I've used a lot of Harken stuff over the years, but what else is out there?

Mine are stock. We may have to pirate the F18's!

Always had Harken, good stuff, but I want an internal cascade next time. Other options are Lewmar, Ronstan, Holt etc.

What's an internal cascade?

A cascading system of blocks running inside the boom. This replaces the large blocks usually used for mainsheets. IT is similar to how your downhaul works, but inside the boom. Pretty common on tornados. Mike (nick: Tornado) posted a picture of his cascading setup on this thread: http://www.catsailor.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=185817#Post185817

I added a schematic on how this can be done below. This was something Macca posted on the TornadoCat list some years ago.

Tom, I hope we are not hijacking your thread and that you find this relevant.

No problem on the hijack. I need something simple that works. I rarley get to sail, so having something that works well and is simple to maintain is what I am looking for.

I've seen three sheave top and bottom blocks with small blocks in the middle to make an 8:1.

I've also seen the Harken International Tornado setup withe the 5 sheave (Mickey Mouse) bottom block and 5 sheave top.

If I were to go to 10:1, is that a good system? Is it too bulky for the 16?

Harken International Tornado Deck Layout

I have Hkn Carbo Ratchamatic 8 to 1 on the F16 Stealth, and see no need for more purchase. It's easy to hand hold under load, and I really like the small amount of extra sheet I have to keep on board. The 10 to 1 on the F18 requires noticably more sheet, that can foul or go overboard.

dave

I find a 7:1 largely sufficient on my stealth. Allow me to regulate the boat with one hand without the need to move the hand up or down on the sheet. The 6:1 I had before was a little to hard to crank hard without using my legs for help and tiring to keep uncleated.

I have a triple with becket on top and a triple with cleat on the bottom with a smaller block on the top of the cleat. Some old ronstan model blocks I believe.

If I ever need a new system I'd probably go for an in boom cascade. It's more work to setup right but it is cheaper to buy and cleaner.

How do you figure?

Most boats now use a direct block to sail connection. This means the sail cut has to be boat specific, but the boom can be very light as there is just a minor compression load on it.

To go cascade you now have all the loads being sent into and through the boom plus the added compression load from the internal cascade. You need a bigger stronger boom for this plus the added room needed to mount the cascade.

You still have to buy 6 blocks and you would still want 1 with a ratchet and cleat. The inside cascade blocks use little line so they are smaller but in the end that does not save you much price wise. If the purchase is the same you still have the same amount of sheet sitting on the tramp and this is what IMO is the messy part of the sheeting system anyway.

M

I have a 10:1 which is made up of Carbo Ratchamatic 7:1 with 2 more 32mm (or maybe 25) carbo (I think) in between.

I can post a picture if anyone is interested.

Please do. But what is the rationale? It seems to me that at 10:1 the sheet wouldn't pay out quickly enough in extreme winds and there would be lots of "string" on the tramp.

Also, at my last outing at GYC, Stefan says he stopped using the main sheet all together (12-15 knots). Instead he used the downhaul to depower in the worst of the gusts. Comment?

I have a 7:1 Harken system.
Before I had a Dart 18 with its unique twisted block, and a traveller with rollers instead of sliding balls (I forgot the company). In all respects the system on the Dart was better:
*No rust inside or outside, after 14 years sailing in salt water
*Never needed to lubricate or clean any part, again after 14 years in salty and sandy environment (I have to spray sailkote on the Harken traveller system every month).
*On the Harken block the angle adjustment of the cleat is too coarse, I can't find any satisfyng setting

I guess most people are satisfied with Harken and other supplier, because they never have a chance to compare to other.

Cheers,

Klaus

That has always been a problem with the Harken Carboratchet - it's solved by adding an extra shackle below the block. This has the effect of providing a half way adjustment between two of the Harken settings.

For simple and easy to maintain, the in-boom sheeting is definately not the way to go. It is neither.

If going 8:1, is there any consideration for or against going with a 4 sheave top and 4 sheave bottom block versus a three sheave top and bottom blocks with smaller blocks in between? Obviously stack height will be shorter with the 4 sheave, but there should not be any mechanical difference, right?

Internal sheeting does not meet my needs - but it is slick.

The bigger the dia of sheet the larger dia blocks you want them to run around. So if going with untappered line it is typically smoother to go with the quad upper and just the 1 40 mil block mounted on the lower ratchet cleat like the Harken system 8:1. A second 40 and this is quickly made to 9:1.

Ronstans new orbit series is top knotch also. They currently only have the trip upper, so you need at least 2 small blocks IMO becuase I feel the 7:1 is too much for single arm action with the big head sails, but they are soon to be offering a quad in that size.

I have an 8:1 on the Blade (3 bottom top block and two small ones in the middle (I added the 2 blocks afterwards)).
Since I don't cleat during regatta's I still found a 'standard' 8:1 quite heavy and had the feeling I could sheet in for max power.
Now I have a tapered main sheet and this is just great.

The only problem with 2 smaller blocks in the middle can be that they touch before you can fully sheet in. I have about 7cm between the 2 left.

Gill

There is also a function issue starting to appear as the front beam is getting further back of the newer designs, the rear of the sail is now over the rear of the boat, which means that to have a direct sail to block connection, the angle is now forcing excessive mast rotation load.

I found with my Stealth that to have the block connection point slightly foward of the effective direct sail connection point allows the mast to rotate quite smoothly and under all sail conditions.

I would like to have a mid sheeting position, I did try it with a 4:1 main and a 2:1 cascade finetuner which worked a treat except that letting the 2:1 out when tacking was too much "out " and also the angle was wrong when you were out on the wire and standing near the front beam ( the sheet caught on the rear of the shroud ). Has anyone perfected a mid sheeting system as the angles make it almost effortless to pull in the sheet ?

I have a GP mainsail with a big head (about 980mm I think) and so it pulls harder than the original Landy sail I had.

The fat head also means that when I do sheet out, it has more effect.

I was also struggling to sheet the gp mainsail when flat trapping withount bending in and so loosing RM.

So far, it appears to be working, I was worried at the Grafham Cat open last year when the forecast (that arrived) was howling and NEARLY dropped a purchase, but that weekend went OK so I've decided to keep it. I also think that if the F18 CREWS are using 10:1 and they get both hands, sailing single handed with slightly smaller mainsail I can have 10:1 also. IT does mean I can play the mainsail while trapping flat!

Yes I have more string on the tramp!

I would agree about the GP sail, it very much a sail that you overpower the sheet or let it off a nano and it is now too loose, going to the 10:1 simply means you are pulling more sheet for less movement thus getting better control.

Does anyone have an idea on how to splice D12 onto a conventional sheet, I want to change to an 8:1 ( I would need to change all my blocks to get too 10:1 ) but it will mean my sheet is too short, easiest would be to splice in a smaller sheet for the section that does'nt emerge through the ratchet block ?