Wouter,

In an earlier post describing key improvements for a fully optimized F16 vs T4.9 you included:

-7- Sheeting the mast rotation of the trampoline instead of the boom is in my opinion another improvement that needs to be incorporated in all F16's. It allows full depowering when letting the main traveller out. Something that is less pronounced with the old system. It also cuts down on complexity.

On which fully optimized F16 boats is this standard (ie, Blade, Stealth, etc)? Is this implemented so one can control mast rotation from either trap (along with DH)?

I'd also be interested if there's any links you know of which describe the details of the rigging of these boats (ie, how the stock spi hoist/snuffer rigging is implemented, etc).

Thanks,

Jerry

Robi has done a great job by publishing a lot of pictures which show how the Blade is set up. It would be very helpful and also will promote the class if there would be an even more extensive rigging or assembly guide. Of course the producers could do something about this. As an example Hobie has an assembly manual on the web:

http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/fxoneassy.pdf

Pictures tell often more than a lot of words

Wouter and Sjon,

Thanks for the great input.

It's amazing how much better a well rigged boat feels and sails than one that's not set up as carefully. Although I like rigging and have completely re-rigged boats in the past, I'd rather spend my time sailing. There's a lot of value added to having a boat well rigged from day one by the manufacturer so things won't have to be substantially changed by every user. Although it's true that some things are a matter of personal taste, its also true that some things work reasonably well for most people and others work poorly for nearly everyone so I'd hope that these excellent boats are set up more in line with the former. Having well designed line handling systems that are accessible from the right part of the boat, that keep excess line out of the way (ie, via bungee return), that are fast to rig and takedown, and that don't get tangled and/or fall overboard let you enjoy the boat more and keep your head out of the boat. Especially when singlehanding I can imagine that the spi hoist/douse system is cruicial. Why make eveyone reinvent the wheel? I think what I'd really like to see is a few different rigging options for critical systems (based on the collective experience of what works well) at the time of a new boat purchase - although some implementations would be more expensive I'm sure that many people would opt for them if that's what they really wanted since it would still be less expensive in the long term compared to paying for things to be rigged one way and then paying again (in time and materials) to redo it. And that's not counting the time and money spent on experimentation...

Jerry

Interesting posts, I get the general consensus opinion that a self tacking jib frees up space on the tramp, lets the crew focus on the main and improves tacking. Sorry for my ignorance but how do I convert from the standard Taipan configuration to a self tacking system. Does any one have a picture that shows a self tacking system so that I can work it out?

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Your might want to take off that excess Duralac with some MEK, Acetone or White Spirit. Contains Barium Chromate,
MSDS link
http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/downloads/duralacm.pdf

Darryn