Mike:

For $30 this is quick, fast and easy.

Doug

This should be interesting then as mine is a one piece tramp which I far prefer to all that cord. Am I to assume this is not good on the torsion front?

I made my own with a piece of axe handle, two longish bolts, and a couple of nuts. Cut the handle off so it's about a foot long. Drill two holes through the end where you cut it, space the holes about 1.5 - 2" apart. Put the bolts into the handle, lock with a nut on either side to keep in place. You want long enough bolts so that the head protrudes a couple of inches. Use that as you tool to tighten. To keep the line tight as move along, I got a wooden emergency stopper plug from a boating store (on a big boat you keep these around for jamming in broken hoses or through-hulls to keep from sinking when these things break), whittled the end down to the size of the grommets, and jammed it in the grommet with the section of line that was just tightened. Twist with tool, jam with plug, move to the next. Worked very well for many years, saved the $30 for beer.

I have set leather into the sections of the seat that are not perfect. This has helped so the idea of resin seems excellent.

I will use the boat as it is to assess it on the water and make my descisions then.
I may however glue the beams in with a product called MS ALL here in NZ. It is a super silicon glue/sealant which I have used on other beams with great success. If you really need to get the beam off you can slip and long razor sharp blade in. A ball ache and it takes a long time but the boats are not degraded by it.

Thank you so much for the fixes, they are copied into my H17 file and will be put to good use.

If you go with the silicone it will only make the job much harder to do properly when you find out it doesn't work. The leather you have in there will allow the hull/beam joint to move already. Go with thickened resin! If you are worried about the cosmetics there is pigment available for either resin, and it is in the beam box anyway so you only see a small amount around the edge. A mornings work if you have the materials to hand. As stated in earlier post this should be done regardless of whatever else you try. Don't forget that if there is play there it will lead to fatigue. A stiff platform is also more responsive.

Cheshirecatman

I will take your point but want to point out I have used the Silicone for exactly this problem on my Hydra and got a great long term result. Absolutely no movement in the platform. But its beams were buttier than the 17s in ratio to the boat size.

I reiterate the leather is a temporary fix that is easily reversible.

I have no worries about the cosmetics and am sure I would do a great job with the resin.

I was told to use 4800 when I was going to do mine. 5200 is permanent. Something about plastic wrap somewhere? Brain drain.

Doug