| Re: Hobie-20 hulls
[Re: Keith]
#16061 02/04/03 12:03 PM 02/04/03 12:03 PM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, Mike Hill
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Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, | Look under your main beam and see if you have horizontal cracks in your gelcoat. This is the key indicator of a problem.
Mike Hill H20 #791
Mike Hill N20 #1005
| | | Re: Hobie-20 hulls
[Re: Keith]
#16063 02/05/03 10:10 AM 02/05/03 10:10 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, Mike Hill
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Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, | If the repair wasn't done right the surface crack will reappear and then it is just a matter of time. It may still last for quite some time though. I've only heard of very few of them actually breaking as a result of this problem.
If the crack does not reappear you should be in good shape.
Keep One Hull Flying, Mike Hill H20 #791
Mike Hill N20 #1005
| | | Re: Hobie-20 hulls
[Re: Keith]
#16065 02/05/03 04:33 PM 02/05/03 04:33 PM |
Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 805 Gainesville, FL 32607 USA dacarls
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Posts: 805 Gainesville, FL 32607 USA | I attended the H20 Nationals at Kiawah Island in 1993 with my friend Carleton Tucker (who won nearly all the races). Several new boats showed problems as described here. If I recall properly, some new hire at the factory had been told to "reduce hull weight by grinding down the excess glass" over the hard polyurethane foam reinforcement under the front crossbar. Said grinder enthusiastically went straight to his work, and ground off ALL the fiberglass on some vertical elements, leaving only (crushable) foam. So- this should apply to new Hobie 20s only- middle 1993. Our Florida boats were older- no crack(s), and no worries!
Dacarls: A-class USA 196, USA 21, H18, H16 "Nothing that's any good works by itself. You got to make the damn thing work"- Thomas Edison
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