So, anyone got advice on how much curve to build into the sleeve that the spectra line runs thru?

Dave

Dave the short answer is as much curve as possible.
work out how far outboard you can get the lacing points on the beams and then assume the tramp will be level with the hull side at the apex of the curve (because of stretch it will end up overlapping a bit).

I have 5 3/4 inches of curve in my tiger tramp.

Steps to tighten the tramp.
Remove rear lacing and the side tie downs.
Pull the corner ropes tight. I use my spin blocks to assist. clamp and tie. Then do the rear cross bar mount. Now reattach the tie down points on the sides. Makes for a verry tight tramp.

Rich, what do you mean tie down points on the sides? I've been using one continual line for the sides. Well, two, one for each side.

My tramp has 2 tie down points on the side of the tramp that tie to the hull. I'll try to get a pic.

Mine goes like this.

From a grommet in the rear corner of the tramp to
an eye strap on the rear beam
forwards through the tramp to
an eyestrap on the front beam to
a grommet on the front corner of the tramp
back to the eyestrap on the front beam to
a grommet on the very front edge of the tramp
and then I tie it off with a truckers hitch.

I just spent about an hour and a half pulling, prying and ripping skin off my hands. Its definetly tighter than it was before. I used a prybar pulling up on the loops on the rear beam and got it pretty good. Its getting too dark here to get a decent pic now.

http://picasaweb.google.com/adecatfotos/HobieTiger#5259686886459697266
Just behind the board is one of the tie downs.

Yeah, I don't have that

My bad I thought the fx1 was the same.

The newer FXs have the tie down.

smart butt...

On the Tiger the "tie down" is just an eye with a screw going directly into the hull, if you can handle a screwdriver this is very easy to make.
I have sailed on all the current F18 models and I dont think the Tiger tramp is any softer than others, maybe the ones before 2003 (old style tramp) where though.
Something I dont like about the Infusion/Tornado style tramp is the amount of screws sticking out of the hull just waiting to rip though your suit.

If you want the tramp to be really tight you could splice a thimble to the end of the line going through and use the mainsheet to tighten the whole thing up.

Perhaps it's the method of tightening it - but I've sailed on three different Tigers and felt that the trampoline was mush on all of them. While it may appear that the mushroom screws would lend themselves to snagging things, I've never experienced this and think they make a good clean and very tight connection.

This weekend was clean/wax/fix stupid stuff on the boat weekend.

All right, I'm on the verge of giving up, or just need a more realistic expectation. Switched the sides to 1/8" spectra. Had to re-lace the back with some 3/16", (more like 5/32") line, cause its all I had, and the original 1/8" stuff broke in round two of tightening. I think I'll switch that out to some 1/8" or 3/32" spectra too next time I order something.

The truckers hitch that I use at the front of the tramp I hooked my main blocks onto that loop and pulled it tight. Any tighter I think I'll be ripping crap out. There is hardly any deflection when you try to squeeze the lines at the front at an angle.

I went through the back lacing with a couple of prybars and pulled loop by loop to get it tight. Went through it probably four times, including the just lacing it part.

I think I could get the back a bit tighter, but not much. The result is much better than what it was, but its still spongy. I had a H14 with a new solid vinyl tramp and I got that baby literally drum tight.

Karl,

If you want to go full out then replace the line in the sides with 1/8" Stainless wire (with a vinyl cover). Leave the end of the eye just poking out the sleeve on the side of the tramp and then lace up with 1/8" spectra going round 3 times for mechanical advantage.

Use shrink wrap on the spice connections to avoid sharp points. Make your eye on one end of the wire and feed the end of the wire through the sleeve until the eye just sticks out. Then crimp your other eye around the shackle you attach to the eyestrap on the cross beam - this lets you get the wire length perfect. You don't need to allow for any stretch with wire.

The 1/8" spectra line for the back lacing is a worthwhile upgrade.

Chris.