Pepin:

1) You want him to buy a 1 3/8" diameter plug for his 2" diameter pole that he just purchased?

2) Anodizing looks cool and reduces any chance of corrosion.

3) The plugs for sale on gobarefootstudio.com are extremely lightweight. they are completely machined on the inside and outside.

4) Is there a problem with a company making a profit?

No. That was merely information for whoever might be looking at converting to an end plug. I felt that having a source for different size end plug might interest other people.

Anodizing with a clear layer doesn't look more cooler... And I'm not convinced it is necessary. My father sail around the world in a 10yo non painted aluminum boat. It's raw aluminum, with no protective layer whatsoever, in salt water...

I have no problem with a company making a profit. I was just saying that this looked expensive and there was a potential source for similar parts (albeit for a smaller diameter pole) for cheaper. Are you saying that competition on prices is a bad thing?

Anodising is a wate of money, the D12 line which we use seems much better as it is much less abrasive and is fairly slippery, runs through nicely ( + you can use a shakle knot on the end to attach the sail ).

Both Pepin and I have gone for much simpler set up, that of having all 3 ropes ( two bridles and one out haul ) coming out of the one centre hole, in the later iteration which Bitza has I simply had a groove machined around the plug and a hole drilled sideways into the centre hole. The bridle then is one piece, wraping around the groove, through the sideways hole into the centre hole and then out through the front ( sorry I'm to lazy to do a drawing ). It works well and is very light weight.

If anyone wants a number made at a specific diameter or design, I know a man who can at minimal cost. Just PM with your requirements.

As usual Pepin is right on. After drilling, angle the drill in the directing the line will run to fair in the hole edges. Then I'd add the additional step of taking a bit of rod/screwdriver shaft at nearly the same diameter...leverage th rod in the hole so it bends the alu outward at the forward side and inward at the aft side. Then use a round file to put final deburring on all the edges.

This basically makes a very clean through-deck. I've seen this done on many keelboat masts & extrusions.

Thanks Guys, i followed this method and got pretty great results.

I was originally told i could bend out the hole a little with a #2 screwdriver, but was cautioned against it by an aluminum welder. It was stated the better the quality the alum.... the more chance of it snapping/or cracking and i was not willing to wait another 4 weeks to get another pole... so i did not attempt to dimple (bend) the hole.

can you do this on regular xls line or only with dynema core?

What makes the pole take four weeks? I have assumed that getting a 2" x .065 or 1.5" x 065 6061 T6 from the local metal shop would do just fine...and started a new project under that assumption. Are you (or anyone) using something special, ie not readily available? thanks

That is how long it took for me from the time i broke my pole, to purchase, cut, fit, rig, test and use my new pole. i had to exchange the first pole because it did not fit my snuffer ring correctly and the new pole had to be ordered and delivered.

I am sure i could have gotten the 2" pole faster elsewhere (probably not cheaper), but i like to support and show loyalty my supplier when possible.

Here is the new pole..

Just to be clear, I was not talking about the abrasion of the aluminum (which is close to zero with high tech dyneema lines) but the abrasion of the anodization.