Not ready yet but close! were do I buy parts like Dolphin striker , mast base and step, spreaders, Rudder boxes (the "P" shape out of alloy 19 x 19 box)just general things like this or am I better buying a cheap mozzie and stripping this for the parts? I'm assuming I can still buy beams and mast sections from the association? I should have at least one hull built soon Cheers Damien

Wasn't there a striker on the beam I sent you?

Damo, its not a good idea to use 2nd hard parts, works sometimes but no always.

Mast sections beams you can get from assoc, mast base and plug from AHPC, and spreaders and spanner, you can get them from greg goodall (Pricey) or from myself.

Alt i can build a mast and boom for u or the parts at your request.

Matt

Hi Damo, are you familiar with the design and construction of the alloy rudder boxes? If so, can you assemble a set? I can supply parts and instructions for you to assemble. Details available when you reply to:- ppearce@internode.on.net

Thanks Guys.
Chris- A mate of mine needed a striker as a loan till I was ready needless to say its still on his boat so I will need to get one of these soon for my new boat.

Matt- Thanks this helps and I agree with new gear, I was only asking for second hand if parts if these are hard to come by. I will defiantly give you a call when both hulls are done and Im ready to ship gear to QLD

Phillip- Kit form will be fine "thank you" I would rather new gear as allot of effort is going into the boat at this stage and would be a shame to have to re-vamp old gear

Thanks every one, saves me buying an old boat to pillage. If interested I will post pics of the build at different stages. Cheers Damo

OK Damo, need details for postage (Australia Post) so contact me via email as in previous message.
Phillip P

Hey Guy's
What type of timber is used for beam blocks? I was going to use cedar for the inwales but wasn't sure if cedar would be to soft for the beam bolts to tighten up on.
Cheers.

PS I have some build photos but to big to upload here, Will try to scale them down. :-)
Damo

Damo try and track down some G10 (or G11) for your pads. You want it at about 1.5x the diameter of the bolts. The other advantage beyond hardness and the total lack of rot is it can be drilled and tapped so you get rid of the fwd inspection ports.

Hey Chris.
Is this the same as the paneling called "Coosa" that gets laminated both sides for strength. If not what is this and were can I buy this?
Cheers
Damo

This stuff. It is quite hard to find in Aus, given your location try ATL.

By inwales I'm assuming you're refering to the cleats in the gunwales. You mould has a return on it to create a composite flange to bond the decks to so you shouldn't need the timber. A small foam wedge under this flange would be a good idea to hold it up and stop it acting like a hinge.

Thanks Chris,
I use ATL and placing a order shortly so I will make the enquiry, also thanks for the tip with the foam wedge ;-) cheers

Damo,

just looking at your photos over at catsailor.net. If you want to get really fancy lay up some double bias (+/-45) glass on a mould made out of a sheet of corregated ali and use that to make your bulkheads.

Thanks Chris.
I have saved the larger off cuts from the Sportboat, (pre laminated panels from ATL)as you see in the pics and was using these as the main beam stations. I love clear timber so I will be covering the deck with ply and 2oz cloth for strength and best UV.

I do have this question for any one reading that might be able to help, what is the best ply to use on Mozzie Decks? I have used Caboon in the past, but there is a fairly new ply replacing the Caboon called "Goldcore Light Plywood" apparently is 38% lighter then Marine Ply and for a 2440 x 1220 of 4mm its $39.30 per sheet. Any feed back would be good as I'm ready to start ordering this part of the build.
Thanks
Damo ;-)

The lightweight plys use low density timbers ( balsa or similar) near the neutral axis. That weight saving is compared to hoop pine which is about 10% heavier than Gaboon. Do the plans call for 3 or 4 mm decks? You might find it hard to get 3mm in which case the light ply could be a good option.

Thanks Chris, I have been back and forward through the plans and cant find any ware the deck thickness is recommended. I will double check tomorrow back at work.
Thanks again
Damo ;-)

front deck 3mm ply mid deck 7mm, but most people use two layers of 3mm ply.

Damo,

lying in bed last night thinking of you.........

Don't use the lightweight ply. The low density laminates will have a long porus structure and any moisture that gets into them will wick along that length causing rot right through the deck (like early balsa structures before people started using end grain).

Thanks Guys'
I'll head down to Pacific Timbers today and have a look there, they specialize in cedars, and exotic ply etc. If no joy there I will use Coosa from ATL and laminate both sides (just wont have the timber look).

Cheers.

PS: Lying in bed thinking of me!!! (worried) LOL

Seek a copy of the building instructions from the national web site. http://www.theracingcat.com/index.php?page=the-shop Decks can be 4mm gaboon but it must be supported. Several options; stringers running forward/aft or I beams across especially for the mid decks. This latter method is very strong, light but slower to build. See the instructions for both methods. No need for glass, this just adds weight, but epoxy resin (2 coats) must be applied to undersides before attaching ply to the hulls.
PM me if you need specific details as I am very familiar with timber build.
Reread of post appears hulls are glass/foam sandwich. Nothing stopping you from using timber build methods to close in the decks. I cannot source 3mm gaboon ply anywhere in Oz. If anyone can, please tell me where!! As before 1 layer of 4mm will hold up (17+years) if engineered properly. (I have seen some failures due to poor/quick build methods.) Oregon for beam pads will be strong. Source some older samples with close growth rings, (no second growth as the tree grows too quickly resulting in inferior quality). Fix pad across the hulls with the annual rings horizontal so the bolting force is across them. Using large bearing plates under the nuts will spread the loads so the timber will not be compressed. I used 2 -3mm aluminium. All timber to be coated with epoxy resin, as in the WEST system. See the building instructions.

Thanks Philip, Yes I love the timber look and thanks for the tip with epoxy. You can buy all the Gaboon you want from a company called "Boatcraft" In Logan-Brisbane, they will ship Aus wide. They quoted me today $54 per sheet 3mm. Boatcraft are timber boat building suppliers www.boatcraft.com.au When I get to the deck stage I might send you some pics to see what you think. Thanks for your help and build info "much appreciated"
Cheers
Damo