I need to replace the traveler car and track on my 1983 Nacra 5.0 (boomless). Nothing is wrong with the track, other than it is the old "I-beam" style and I can't find a traveler car for it. I've been told by a few people that instead of replacing the old track with a new one that runs essentially the length of the rear beam, I should use a shorter 2-foot track.

Any thoughts?

I'd never go that short unless the boat was ALWAYS to be sailed with a spinnaker. I sailed a 5.O for a couple years, and you need all the traveller track it comes with. Good luck.

I would have kept the track as long as possible.

Those times you want to park the boat, or need to depower on a reach the extra length is essential.
We have blown our traveller car twice, and sailing with the mainsheet tied to the center of the rear beam is scary when it's time to manouver. Go for the original or extra length!

Thanks for the advice. I will go with a longer track. I wasn't looking forward to setting and tightening all the nuts and screws through the beam on a longer track. Oh well, it'll give me something to do.

Rolf, if I make to Scandinavia next summer, maybe I could meet you and go sailing. My wife is from Helsinki and we are planning to spend some time in Finland and go to Norway (Lille Arno-Indre Naro- Namdalen) where my Grandfather was born and was a fisherman.

Keep the length, as has been said. Go with the Harken track and traveler car:

http://store.catsailor.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jndmfrpok0

(that should be one line) In any case, right here in Cat Sailor City, you can go to the store, do a search for 'traveler track' and get a page with a listing of various tracks. Pick the best for your specifications. If in doubt, go bigger. Do the same for 'traveler car'.

Good luck Connection: close
with it. At least there are lots of convenient holes drilled in your beam so you can undo the screws... imagine trying to reach something to the centre of the crossbar, whoo hoo!

It's not to difficult. Just tape your tool of choice (i prefer pipes) to a stiff batten. It's easier if you can get a friend to help you, but I have done it alone. A small bit of double sided tape in the bottom of the pipe holds the nut in place while you are turning the bolt/screw. Locksafe nuts are preferred, and if you can find them, some sturdy nylon washers. If you dont find the right washers, you are probably better off without.



Sure, just let me know when you are in the area. You should not visit Namdalen without seeing the area I live in (Romsdal/Molde). You would get the completely wrong picture of coastal Norway.

http://www.namdalen.com/
http://www.visitmolde.com/
http://www.romsdalsalpene.com/

Some of the older Nacras have holes in the underside of the beam for getting some sort of implement in there to the nuts. It shouldn't be too tough once you work out what kind of tool you need.

My 5.2 is a 1980 model and it has the holes... very convenient.

-Rob V.
Panama City