My Prindle 19 rudder system has both rudder control lines running through the rudder arm; V-cleat. Is there a better setup that will allow me to 'quick release' the rudders? Any pictures of options greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
BB.

There is a small hole below the V jam on the arm. This is where the line that pulls your rudder down should be lead. You'll have to re-feed this line from where it leaves the rudder casting and enters the arm. Taping this line to a coathanger will help you to feed it through the arm. It should have a stopper ball at its' end.

Does anyone know how to adjust the Prindle 19 rudder system so it is easier to release using the control line. All the lines are led correctly and it can be released but takes a lot of time and muscle. It kicks up fine.

Thanks Aidan

Lots of silicone spray on the moving parts and make sure that the rudder is fore/aft because any turning forces will hike up the friction.

Check the pdf file from the manual. The pull down line has a ball and exits through a hole at the end of the tiller arm. The pull up line has the aluminum tube and exits through the v cleat on top of the tiller arm.

Check the sheaves in the system are not stuck and roll.

I put new lines and new sheaves on mine and lubed it all up and it was still hard to get the rudder up for clearing weed...

Has anyone changed out the safty pin that holds in the rudder pins? It looks like a big safety pin. I go through 2 a year and it feel off in the last race. What else could I use? I never disassemble the boat, so it does not need to be convenient.

I tried those safety pins several years back. The starboard one fell out while sailing in about 15+ knots of breeze. The pintle fell down several inches causing the rudder casting to flop over 45 degrees and chip the gelcoat. It wasn't easy getting it together and back to shore. Since then I use a split ring with a curved end that makes it easy to attach and remove. I haven't had a problen in 10 years.

The circular plastic shims work well. Murray's marine sells them. I'm not sure if Catsailor does. For recreational sailing I loosen the bolt where the rudder pivots slightly. This makes it easy to raise and lower. For a race I'll snug it up so that the rudder just barely falls under its' own weight while sitting on the beach. This makes it harder to raise and lower but it takes a lot of the slop out and improves helm response.

Thanks, I will try split rings. I have almost the identical story to yours... What about using a cotter pin?

Matt

where did you get sheaves? The ones I've got are badly cracked and worn - I'd like to replace those as the lines on one pull-down keep dragging.

Here's where I buy sheaves:
http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e263.asp

--Glenn

Thanks Glenn! I generally look here (catsailor store) but didn't see anything. I think I'll renew nearly everything.

I used cotter pins when I had a P16 because there isn't much room to insert a split ring. A cotter pin would be fine for your use. I take my rudders off when I trailer the boat to races or when there is unusually nasty weather on the way when my boat is on the beach. I really don't like this type of rudder system. I've learned how to tweak it after all these years but would prefer any of the other systems available.