Like Carl, I built my own. I'm sure there are many who would not recommend it, but I have confidence in it. I know the guy at WestMarine told me I was crazy... something about quality of SS and such. I'd probably say the same thing if I were losing $200 in sales.

-Rob V.
Panama City

I have no problem building the rigging myself. I work at an airline and can get all the cable I need. We also have some great swegers. The problem is that our cable is more flexable than the oem and I read that might be bad because if you get some slack in the cable and it coils up a little you might get a toe or finger in the coil. When it tightens up you could loose them.

airborne

I went to layline, can you please tell me which universal you used.

airborne

Airborne,

Just talked to Mike at Layline and their part number for the universal is R0842. They are out of stock but you can call them and see when they expect them in. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Carl

Saylor Specialties
www.saylorspecialties.com

If you are rebuilding the tiller bar ends, I might suggest using the NACRA TILLER TIE BAR UPGRADE KIT available from www.MURRAYS.COM part number 56-5516 cost is $32. If you go to the web site you can see a picture of the parts. It is on page 33 of the 05-06 cataloge

I think that is the part I have (NACRA TILLER TIE BAR UPGRADE KIT). I guess it is a little worn out.

airborne

Does anyone know how long and how to route a righting line for the 5.2

airborne

It should be about 12' long and tied to the mast post. I used to tie mine to the mast post just under the mast ball and store it on a pocket in the trampoline. If you find yourself capsized, get the line out of the pouch and throw it over the top hull so that it falls down the bottom side of the cat. Use it to lean out....

There are other nuances to righting the boat too....briefly; be sure to try and orient the bows so they are roughly pointing into the wind. Sometimes you have to stand out on, and submerge, the bows to get the boat to pivot properly.

Mine is about 15' long but that is too much. I tied a figure eight knot at the proper length so that I can slip it under the hook of my harness. This should allow me to hold the mast up a little while I get my bag ready to help me right it. This is all theoretical since I haven't capsized yet. I'm still waiting to build the nerve (and warmer water). I built the bag last winter and never really set it up on the boat, so now I find myself again waiting for warmer water to practice. I still carry it in case of an emergency but I still don't push the boat as much because I haven't proven it works. I'm pretty sure my mast is not perfectly sealed.

-Rob V.
Nacra 5.2
Panama City

Hi airbourne,
just writing to let you lnow that there is section on tunning notes at www.goosemarine.com.au I found it quite useful for our 5.8 it might help with your 5.2 they can't be that much different.

What a great artical. That will help me a lot since I am a little light on experiance.

Would you right it your self, or did both people hand on to the single line.

thanks airborne

Both people hanging onto the same line. Usually (hopefully) when you capsize, there is wind. If there is wind in excess of 15 knots, you can probably right the boat single handed. If this is possible, have your crew sit on the low hull by the main beam while you right the boat. As the boat starts to come up, your crew should roll right over onto the deck of the boat and be in great shape to get things under control while you get on board.

If there is less than 12, you will definitely require both people leaning out on the boat to right the boat. I (usually being the lighter of the two) usually go out on the daggerboard to get additional righting leverage while my crew would stay on the hull leaning out.

Regardless, be prepared to grab the dolphin striker as the boat comes up, the boat will want to keep rotating and capsize in the opposite direction. It is important that you grab the dolphin striker and lift yourself up using your weight to convince the boat to remain "pointy-side-up". If your crew was able to roll over the hull you probably don't need to worry about this so much.

Thanks for the help. I hope I don't get to practice this alot.

airborne

Speaking of practicing this, I really do need to practice it. Since my boat is so old and crusty, I've always been afraid that I would break something. Is capsizing and righting particularly rough on the rigging?

-Rob V.
Panama City
Nacra 5.2

A full blown "butt over tits" can be rough on the mast. Going over on her side isn't so bad. All can be tricky for the people if you don't plan your exit strategy early.

Righting it is not tough on the rigging at all.

When you say "All can be tricky for the people if you don't plan your exit strategy early". Can you give me the basic's to a good exit strategy.

airborne

You'll be surprised how slow they go over if you go on your side. Especially if you are actually trying to go over. You have a few seconds to think about not jumping or falling into the sail, boom, boards, or anything else that would be bad for you or the boat. Sometimes you don't even have to jump off, but can climb down from the top hull. Be careful if your are sailing 2-up, if the other person jumps or falls off, it will shift the balance of the boat and can throw you off.

Thats nice to know. I thought you wouldn't have time for anything.

airborne

I'm assuming a good exit strategy is don't break some part of you body on the boat and don't break the boat with some part of your body. I remember the one time I turned the mainsheet over to my brother-in-law while I was on the wire. He healed it over so hard I don't know how we didn't capsize. We had to be right at the "point of no return." I was in the mental process of picking a landing spot when he finally eased the sheet and gave me a nice dunk on the wire.

-Rob V.