Give the engineers some credit for having supplied the correct amount of feedback before you go changing it.
Oh, I'm sorry, are you the only engineer here? Guess I'll need to get my boss to order me new business cards....
Sailing is just like the flight of a plane, but you have one set of foils producing lift and drag in one fluid and another in a different fluid. The sails produce the defining set (maximum lift to be overcome by the boards) while the underwater appendages produce at best equally offsetting lift. If I took your assertion about balancing the boat, then all forces would be equal and you would not need daggers. Regardless of the location of the CE, it's the same quantity of force that has to be overcome to keep the boat from sliding. ALWAYS tune the sails for speed and rudders for helm. CA Marchaj has some great books on this subject.
When the "balance point" between the daggers and the rudders is too far aft and the rudders are carrying more load, the CE is further aft and therefor the CE on the rudders is further aft (behind the pivot point). They only produce as much lift as is required by the sail plan b/c they are reacting to the water flow and the force exerted on them by the sail plan. If you move the CE of the rudder forward, you will cause neutral helm b/c now the torque is in alignment with the gudgeon. The force is always there, just what you feel is relative to the pivot point. You have to pull on the stick to counteract the location of the force and that is what makes you slow, not the fact that the rudders are carrying more load... that part is irrelivant.
Ventilation and transome destruction will occure, but... I've sailed in some WILD sh*t and haven't seen anyone rip the gudgeons off yet with the sails. I did see some broken I20 rudders, but that appeared to be a problem with the foils, not the sail setup.
If you rake further forward, now the daggers are carrying more load, but the total load is the same.
I guess all the fast I-20, H20, N6.0... etc guys have it wrong then... Seems to me like increased rake is fast in a lot of conditions on a lot of boats. We added an extra extender to the forestay on the H20 (hobie has lengthened it stock now) to get the mast further back. On the 6.0 we added a chainplate and ground out part of the rudders to increase rake. On the I-20 we added a chainplate or bought a longer forestay. I'll just say that as a general rule of thumb, the bottom tip of the dagger is the average setting for mast rake.... guess we'll all be standing the masts back up straigher to go faster.