main sheet string

What is the best way to run the main sheet line. i have an 8:1. my current config it twists as it goes. how can i eliminate that twisting?

trial and error.

There is only one way to thread yer blocks. Check with harken or the manufacturer to get the correct pattern.

I agree, just try every direction till you get it right. Takes some time sometimes, but you WILL get it right in time.

Doug

Put your system together with a twist.
No, really.
The axis of the top one is at 90 degrees to the lower one.

true...once I figured that out...it was a piece of cake.

I agree with the trial and error plan. I spent probably close to an hour sitting in front of the TV reeving (sp) my 8:1 over and over before I got something that I thought looked correct without the sheet touching itself anywhere.

Yea it is a pain, <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> BUT once you get it right. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> OH so SWEET <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Doug

From the Harken site. A little small, but it looks correct. You can see the top block is oriented 90 degrees to the bottom block.

Things to look for when experimenting with roving patterns: Does the top block get pulled over at a funny angle under load (this will cause the line to jump off the blocks and incur a lot of friction)?
Do lines touch one another?
If lines are close are they moving in the same direction when sheeting in or out?

Chris.

I have a different layout. it is older. I'll post a photo, later today.

Is it really just a case of " just try every direction till you get it right" ??? wouldnt there be an "optimal" way where there is the max purchase/strenght?

I have never been able to find good documentation online from Harken how to reeve my line so i called them... attached is what i got sent to me.

The purchase or mechanical advantage won't be effected by how it is pulled though the blocks. What will effect it is drag from rubbing on itself or from binding. Strength I don't think I could comment on. The working loads of what these systems are capable of are usually far more than the loads that they actually see on the boat.

another pic from the other side

good pics Karl. Are those 40mm or 75mm on top?

57mm quad upper and 57mm triple with a becket on the bottom. I think the little block is a 40mm.

Came with the boat, I'm still not totally happy with the way it works, but it's better than it was. The sheet needs to be smaller I think as well, its 7/16 and doesn't run through the blocks very fast. I had 5/16 on my last H16 and if you dropped the sheet it just went ZIIIIIIIING. and you got t-bagged.

Andrew, these are great, only i have 4 accross the top and the becket is on the bottom ring. would one run 8 on the loop between 1 & 4, then down?

I take it you have a Tiger. On ours we used the stock Kite sheet as a mainsheet and then used swiftcord for the kite sheets.

FXone. Probably the same exact setup as the Tiger though.

Looking at flumpmaster's drawing from Harken I think I have mine correct. However it was done before it wasn't very good.

karl yes its the same as the tiger. but im going to 10:1 now.

Karl's picture is very nice, exactly how I reive mine.

I'd like to add an idea that I use on my mainsheet. Notice that the end of the line dead-ends onto a becket. I added a small caribiner clip to the end of the line so I can quickly change from 8:1 to 7:1. I use 8:1 most of the time, but for light air days, I can quickly switch to 7:1 by detaching caribiner from padeye and attaching it to itself, essentially. Although it would seem to be "unbalanced" laods, since the end that is single instead of double is closer to center, it's not even noticeable.
I also have a swivel above the block, this helps blocks not get tangled.
I use mafioli swiftcord for my mainsheet line, it's really confortable and light.
I think I posted pix at :
http://www.catsailor.com/gallery/profile.php?uid=143

Yah, I have the same basic set-up for my P19MX w/spin using: on top a Harken 3"quad (Nacra?), on the bottom Lewmar w/cam cleat, Yale Conception (Mafioli clone). I note that Karl has oriented the single block attached to the becket on the bottom "ACROSS" the axis of the stack. That is hard to explain to people but is KEY!!! That little trick is the way you get a 7x1 stack to run "cleanly" also.

I used the Lewmar on the bottom mainly because I could get the Camcleat adjusted to the proper angle to cleat/uncleat vs the Harkin "BigBlock 3in w/cleat". I didn't try the Harkin "Carbo's" at the time.

HarryMurphey
H18mag/#9458, Fleet 54
P19MX w/spin /#86, CRAC

I don't see why more catsailors don't use tapered mainsheets. You can make your own, and mainsheets tapered to a smaller tail inside the blocks surely do run easier. Tapering makes Maffioli or its clones really nice.
I struggled for years with fat 1/2 inch mainsheets on Hobies until the revelation struck.