Nacra 6.0 rigging help

I hate to ask this question because im sure it has been answered but i am having trouble finding exactly what i am looking for. I have recently purchased a 1995 nacra 6.0na and have little to no knowledge on how to rig it all. I have basic knowledge as far as wires and shrouds but as far as the halyards and mast controls i am very lost. It also has a spinnaker but i am not worried about that right now. If anybody has any detailed photographs or information on the setup i would be very appreciative. pointing me to other links would help to. I am willing to search but am not having to much luck. Just to start the blocks on the bow foil baffle me and all the rigging on the front cross beam and mast base are my big issues. The rear crossbar and rudders and such are not an issue but the downhaul and jib controls i could use some advice on. Any and all help welcome and thank you to all who can guide me through the confusing transfer from hobie 16 to nacra 6.0na.

well, even if you had some of the more experienced folks physically looking at it, chances are it would take them a little while to sort it all out. Many people rig their boats differently.

If you could post some photos of the blocks you're trying to sort out, we may be able to help with that from here.

Where are you located ? I sail a 6.0 and would be glad to help.

why not ask the pervious owner for help?

Full assembly manual here; http://www.nacraeurope.com/manuals.php?PHPSESSID=f15975349d5ced57faa1b76e40062c40

This is edgerock sailin on my friends name and i am from Baltimore, Maryland. I plan to contact the previous owner but was hoping somewhere on the forum existed some pictures already. If anyone has a nacra 5.8/6.0 in the area i would be glad to come look at it. My friend has also recently purchased a 5.8 and could use some advice as well. I am slowly starting to figure it out but am just looking to make sure everything is proper and in the right place. Thank you to all that can help.

Here are a few pictures of my old 6.0.
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/553220198WVjMYd There are only a few close up.

I have a feeling your boat might even be might old boat. Did you buy it from Pete Malquist? Sail #308?

The blocks on your "bow foil" .... are they "Cheek Blocks"???? If they are they are for a Jib Luff Tensioning system. Is your "mast rotator" mounted at the mast base and in front of the mast, also is it "trapizodial" in shape??? If so that is the upgraded "Over-Rotatable" Mast rotation system. You over rotate the mast going downwind (w/o the spin) for improved downwind performance. You have to cross the lines ... port to starboard, starboard to port when attaching them.

"Md Blow Boater" has a thread several weeks ago where we discussed some of these issues .... I just forgot the name of the thread .....

Harry Murphey

My 6.0 is sitting in my front yard. You're welcome to come see it and talk about set up - I live in Cape St. Claire near the Bay bridge.

We've had a few in our Fleet, so there's more than one person in the area to talk to, or sail with for that matter.

The blocks on the bow foil are for the jib luff tension. The jib halyard connects to the blocks, the line from the blocks goes back to a cam cleat on the main beam.

Check us out if you're looking for help or to go sailing - West River Catamaran Racing Association

Unless Baker decided to turn his into a yard ornament or is developing his own private fleet of cats during this past winter (Keith), you can see his 6.0 during this season's races on the West River.

Enjoy,

It's a great boat, fast on many points of sail, some drawbacks, especially with the spin, as in a huge barn door jib, etc. Hard for any boat to beat it on a true reach however.

The pics of someones former 6.0, do not show the factory '4-way jib system', but rather gommets in the tramp for the jib block. This could be an advantage when rigging the spin however, and I'm pretty sure thats whay it is rigged that way. Looks good.

Just like your old boat, so much can be said about rigging, etc. Take your time, sounds as though you will use sound advice, and don't be to afraid to try some different rigging from time to time and see the results.

As said, the blocks on the foil, are for jib luff tensior while on the fly. I had a furler on mine, and rarely ever used this for this purpose.

My avatar is me on my former N6.0na, with a homemade plastic tube snuffer (behind the windward hull in the pic), which I made after mye N20 syle E-O snuffer (shown in a pic), was dragged under again and again during a distance race when the spin was in the snuffer.

You have some great advice here, good luck and enjoy you 6.0.

Since my friend is working all week on call he asked if I would post the pictures of his boat for him. Also I think he'd definitely like to come see you boat Keith, thanks.

We assume most of the extra stuff on his is for the spinnaker but are pretty much clueless as to what.

I posted a lot of pics with questions but whatever you may have some insight on, any helps us get it rigged.

The other side looks like this too.

Other side of the front beam.


How would you use these blocks on the rotator arm?


He has a nice downhaul set up like you guys have recommended but what are these cleats for?


Rear beam, both ends are the same. We aren't sure about the extras here.


Cleat here?
[img]http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/42870/2207741820079449133S425x425Q85.jpg[/img]

These are the straps on the rear beam. Too short?
[img]http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/45171/2411033680079449133S600x600Q85.jpg[/img]

We know the hooks on the left are for the stays and trap but what about the smaller one on the right?
[img]http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/18173/2811073240079449133S600x600Q85.jpg[/img]

And this is at the top. For the spinnaker but why 2?
[img]http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/3877/2071821970079449133S600x600Q85.jpg[/img]

Re the blocks on the rotation spanner;
a line ties off on a pad eye on starboard side of the beam, go through the block on the port side of the spanner and back to a cleat on the starboard side of the beam via the cheek block next to the pad eye. Mirror this for the other side of the boat.
this is so that you can pull a line from the tramp and the mast will rotate to 90 degrees [along the beam] when sailing down wind. REMEMBER to release each time you gybe!

These can also be used to over-rotate a bit upwind in light airs. Remember to let them off each time you tack!

RE cleat here;
look up the delux 4-way jib system in the Nacra europe manual [earlier post]

Re extra downhaul cleats;
The blocks that are at the top of each side of the downhaul don't just shackle to the tack of the mainsail. Tie a strong line to each and pass line through tack eye to jam in cleat on each opposite side of mast. this doubles the purchase. Get the right size line or it either won't stay in cleat or the opposite!

I think that the Na had a double set of diamond wires and some of the extra metalwork on the mast may relate to this. Us europeans didn't need a longer mast to go fast so I will leave it to some of your brethren to fill us both in on this one!
Otherwise it may be the result of spinnaker experimentation.

the big cleats on the front beam that face foward and outboard are for jib sheet barber haulers. They are to change the sheeting angle when sailing downwind. Again, look at the rigging manual

The gap in the beam straps does not look normal, but should be ok as long as the straps are in good shape.

I recognized what every cleat, block, etc. was intended for in the original 6.0na. There are a few extra things, like multiple spin halyard heights, etc.

The block on the rear beam was porbably used as a rudder uphaul.

The larger cam cleats on the front beam are for the barberhauler system. You definitely need a copy of the
older N5.8/6.0na manual.
The smaller ones and the blocks on the rotator arm of for the 2 to 1 rotator system.

The jam cleats on the mast, are for the cascading part of the main downhaul.

The outboard jam cleat by the daggerboard on the hull are for the stock 4 way jib system. Not seen on this boat. If you put the jib blocks on the hull on the track, you will loose a lot of pointing ability. (thats why the other 6.0 pictured had the jib blocks on the tramp, even though the stock 4 way system was not used)


My 6.0 had some plastic shims in the gap of the beam straps to take up most of that space you see in yours. In some hairy conditions, those edges can be real dangerous.

Sounds like you have very knowledgeable people in your area willing to help.

PS, someone mentioned the stock over-rotator for the mast, NOt being used when flying the spin. I disagree, it should also be used with the spin up, especially in big wind.

Have fun

PS, Trust me on this one, you may want to change out all the beam stap bolts. They DO break. Get the right case hardening. Don't just anuy size bolt that will thread will thread. Has to be the right grade. Use snti seize also.

I remember someones breaking in an East coast race, and mine broke offshore on a training run for the Great Texazs 300 years ago.

I think the cleats on the rear beam are actually rudder downhaul. I believe that used to be referred to as the Aussie rudder system - one of our 5.8s used a similar system. It gives more control over the rudders, but you lose the auto pop-up the stock system has. The eye straps next to them are most likely for the spin sheet blocks - although they're not the best angle for that (they could also be the dead end of the rudder line). On the port side of your front beam - the little cam cleat is for the jib luff tension.

The mast is a little odd with all the different halyard attachments. The two up top are most likely for two different size head sails. The one below the hounds almost looks like it was put there for the jib - definitely not stock.

Todd is spot on about the jib blocks being on the hull track and losing pointing. After playing with settings a bunch (stock 4-way system and stock sails), I found that for upwind I wanted the jib blocks almost in to the hiking straps and back enough for some jib twist (depending on conditions). For downwind I left the blocks in the same place and merely barberhauled all the way to beam end, for reaching somewhere in between.

I also agree with Todd on the mast rotation control - use it for all points of sail. But don't forget to release it during tacks and jibes... How to rig the rotator - on your front beam on either side of the mast step is an eye strap and a turning block, then a cam cleat at the base of the barberhauler cleat. Dead end the line at the eye, run it through the opposite block on the rotator, back through the turning block, and then out through the cleat. You can run a long line and use the other end of it for the other side. When you're done rigging it, the lines from each side should cross each other under the rotator on the way to the blocks and back.

As Todd said, the cleats on the mast near the downhaul are for cascading parts of the downhaul. I don't use them on the downhaul setup on my 6.0, but we do use them on the downhaul on our N-20.

Shoot me a message if you want to stop by.

Thanks for going into to some of that a bit further Keith.

You definitely could be right about the cleat on the rear beam. I had that on my 6.0 when I got it as 2nd owner, but adapted the system off of a site here, forgot which one, that had great pics of a system that does away with the bungie, and puts a jam cleat on the tiller arm. Then it uses an uphaul line, while still using the thing Nacras use, forgot the name of the pop up sleeve. You've problably had or seen this set up as well.

This will have him going in no time.

You have the wrong beam straps on the rear beam. Those go on the front beam. More than likely the previous owner ordered/bought straps improperly. The front beam is more recessed into the hull requiring a shorter strap, hence a longer strap for the rear beam, which you don't have.

For some reason I can't see the pictures posted. Sooo going blind here I would then like to offer that perhaps the cleats on the rear beam are for doubling the spinnaker sheets, which is very usefull on the 6.0 with fairly big spin we had. Man, miss that spin....

They are cam cleats with fairleads facing in the direction that would give them holding power from an aft direction. Wrong direction for doubler setup, although you could probably change it a little to get that.

Wow thanks for all the help. Im away from the boat now but plan to look over all the posts and the boat in order to better understand. Everyone who replied was a great help and with the little bit of knowledge i do have i think i have it figured out. Another question i have is about raising the mast. i have an ez step mast raiser and was wondering if you guys had any tips?

Will you be single handing this 6.0?

If you mean tips on the EX step system, others might.

ON my old 6.0 in the avatar, I always used to raise it myself while on the tramp and someone held the top before I started, etc. You know the routine. Years later, someone pointed out that with the weight on this mast and all, that this put a lot of strain on the tramp, tramp tracks and lacing, etc. So the last few years I had someone 'crank it up using a trap line, while I steadied it and helped it initially due to the angle and strain this put on the mast base.

Another friend that cranked his 6.0 mast from nearly the tramp, had his mast base bolt bend big time due to this.

Enjoy

No, i dont plan to ever sail the 6.0 single handed. as for the ez stepper, i have a problem already with the front crossbeam being bent already. if the ez stepper or the winch i have on the trailer will make this worse let me know what the best way to get the mast up is. thank you.

Someone should be on the boat, so when the captive ball pin is inserted, he/she can raise and steady the mast while it's being cranked up. May be the EZ step system steady's the mast from side to side?
Someone should be holding the mast about the hounds, arms over their head, while the pin is being inserted and the mast raised.

whoa there,

Were those pics of your new boat. I didn't notice any bends of significance in the front, or rear beam.
Hard to notice in pics though.

The 6.0 mast, in nearly all instances, needs to be raised/lowered with the mast rotated 90 degrees, so that the captive ball mast base won't hit and break things, or get broken itself. Usually, the area that holds the pin in to keep it captive on the ball gets broke if not rotated.

Can you tell us more about the front crossbar bend. Like where on the bar exactly, what might have caused it perhaps. I'm sure we can tell if it's going to be a big problem or not. Tell us more about this please.

Waht is the pattern that you run the jib halyard on? I have a length of wire with an end that attaches to the top of the jib and than i have an eye on the other end. The length of this wire is approx the same as the length of the forestay. i am guessing that i am supposed to attach a rope to the other end and run it along the forestay down to the bridle foil as the halyard. What i dont understand is how the cheek blocks and pulleys work on the foil. I have one block in the middle and two cheek blocks on the port outside edge of the foil. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you

You will probably have a simple halyard that ties to the eye in the wire to hoist the sail, then untie this one and put it somewhere safe for dropping the sail. The wire halyard will attach to a purchase that is mounted on the foil once it is hoisted.

To Md BlowBoater, and Edgerock,

Guys, You really should make the time to go see Kieth's boat at his house in Cape St Claire. Kieth is one of the most knowledgable and best Cat Sailors on the Upper Chesapeake Bay. He lives only 30-45mins from you and can answer ALL your questions you have about your N5.8 and N6.0NA. I would take a camera!!!! Take I695 over the Francis Scott Key Bridge ... Rt10 south, to Rt2 south ... left on College Parkway ... Kieth can direct you from there.

I really, really, really suggest you take Kieth up on his offer !!!!!!!

Also, you'll most likely need to make a trip tp APS (Annapolis Performance Sailing) in Eastport for replacement lines and stuff. Over the bridge by AYC, left at the first traffic light, down on the left after "Ruth Chris's Steak House".

And you need to get working on your boats so that both of you can attend "Gunpowder" on the first weekend in May ... and then Rock Hall on June 20-21st. Kieth will explain the sailing/racing program at West River which he helps organize and run.

Or you guys can send me your addresses by PM or E-Mail and I'll arrange to visit on one of my trips from Philly to Annapolis.

Harry Murphey

Here's a picture forward on a light air night. Might give you a little context...

An easy way to raise a mast that I've just had shown to me is for one person to be standing on the front beam leaning back holding onto a trap wire in each hand as though they're water skiing. As the person lifting the mast raises it they get the benefit of the other persons weight pulling it up which makes the step onto the tramp easier or the lift from waist to above head.
The other thing to consider is making sure your mast is sealed perfectly, when my 5.8 lost its seal and flooded the mast it took 3 of us to right it on the beach. The easiest way I've found to check for mast leaks is to tape a compressor nozzel to a hole in the bottom of the mast then when the compressors on brush soapy water on the mast and look for bubbles, works a treat and you cant over pressure the mast because the excess air just leaks out the tape.
regards

Does anybody know what size the rivets are on the rear beam for the eye straps? The ones that connect the tramp to the beam are loose and i would like to try and reset some of them.

keith or kieth?

It's "i" before "e", except after "c" and when spelling "Keith"

ah hah! i thought so. thanks