Adjustable trapeze setup

I am putting together new adjustable trapezes on my f18 (with cam cleats, etc...) and looking for a little guidance.... Can anyone point me in the direction of some pics on the internet or flick through some tips?
Thanks

... is this, what you are looking for:

the pic on the right looks like it would definatly run the risk of uncleating while on the wire, i would personally not run mine like that.

mine is exactly like the image on the left and works flawlessly.. (however i have seen them weather/corrode to the point they dumped the skipper. He was flying the hull very high, and hit a wind dead spot, and came down kinda fast... he then t-bagged and fell right off the boat)

I've used the one on the right for several years. It works fine as long as the line is relatively fresh.

However, I just switched back over to 'ol faithful to get back to a simple setup (that doesn't beat the snot out of our daggerboards when raised). A double wire dog bone (with a high and low position) tied to a simple line through the cable end-eye, a Hobie bowsie stopper, and a bunji tied straight to the line.

interesting, it really looks like it would swivel around and then the "sheeting angle" would dislodge it from the cleat part (thus dropping you and t-bagging you).

Now that i look closer there seems to be 2 separate trap wires? pulling from different angles (that could prevent it from twisting) how can that be possible?

Andrew, that diagram's just lifted from one of Clamcleat's 'suggested use' example sheets. It shows a couple of applications of the Clamcleat Racing Junior cleat and the one on the right isn't necessarily a trapeze ......

ahhh gotcha, thanks

You wouldn't hook into that loop shown in the line - the trap ring would be on the line that extends down below the drawing. The loop is what you pull to dislodge the jam cleat to change the height of the trap. With load, the line coming around and the angle of the little roller at the top pulls the line downward into the cleat.

clear as mud now!

Mine are setup like the one on the left with a block where the handle is show. Then I run the line with a stopper thru the block like Jake. I prefer the Can't Miss handles over the dog bones. Less damage when they hit the crew comming off the wire. Best of both.

I agree with Jake and the KISS method works best here. We have the more complicated setup (picture on the left), it beats the daggerboards to pieces when they are raised, and we hardly adjust them. When we bought the boat, the lines were practically corroded to the cleats, from lack of adjustment. Its really a set once and forget deal on the cats, imo.

Adjustables rock for distance racing - they let you vary your leverage to keep the hull skimming on a fixed course as the pressure varies. They also let you get into a high position out of the waves - which is really nice when reaching in confused seas.

Even around the cans I quite like them. The high setting is good for marginal trap conditions. Simple (dogbone with hi/low position) works pretty good as well though.

Chris.

In this photo we have the current Australian champs in taipan 4.9's. very simple boat and not new by any means. Their trap lines are very simple, just a loop of dyneeema covered in plastic.

It's all really about personal preference.

I trapeze very low, and i use a adjuster alot to get myself as low as possible in breeze and i have to adjust up when we tack to be able to reach the discs (which are already low). Crewing on the F18 i have a simple 2:1 system (same as most monons) with only a bit of bungy on the actual wire pulling it up to stop it flapping about which means in light conitions i can move in and out without touching the handle and keep triming the main.

My helm has a nacra/mastrom system which i think is the best one if you want a adjustable with the ring being pulled up.

I'll try and find some pics.

its all really about what you like, i move my adjuster alot so i have a system the works really well and gives me all the adjustment i need, while others dont adjust at all so dont need it.

Thanks for the help folks.

Any other pictures welcome....

Thanks

i also adjust often. on the boat so i can get the ring on my hook without lifting my body to the ring. off the side when a wave comes my way, or when i can lower myself for more leverage..

but i also agree.. simpler is always nice..

how high are you trapping?????? my ring sits 3 inches below deck level, never needed to lift myself up....

in the "stored" position, the rings are about 1/2 engaged. this is above deck.

also i adjust on the water, and sometimes i end up with not enough wind to be fully trapped out, so sometimes i will pull myself inboard via the adjuster and try to stay out (although not extended all the way out).. with a hull out the water if i can...

I usally trap with my ring about a foot below deck level, which means it's a long way to adjust before a tack lol.

In light airs where its wireable part of the time i adjust up fairly high (i'm only 50kgs so we survive the light) and take the main which means we fly very little in a gust and take lots of speed