Diamond Wire Settings

I replace my diamond wires and stupid me forgot to take a reading before taking them off... And I liked the setting....

I have found a few settings on line of 176 KGS/ 390 LBS Setting #28 on the Loos Gaudge, but that seems a light.

Any other benchmarks to consider?

Boat = 2003 NACRA F-18
Crew = on average 440 lbs.... I know... to big old guys
Wind = on average 10 to 15 kts steady
Water = general ocean sailing... moderate chop

The Infusion tuning guide is probably a good start:
http://www.nacrasailing.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/nacra-f18-infusion-trimsheet-5.pdf

Tony,

Thanks.... I have looked at that and have been told that they are two different mast profiles which sort of negates the recommendation... Am I getting wrong info?

They are very different masts. While I wouldn't be surprised if the average settings work out very similarly (since the load capacity of the wire systems are likely very similar), I would consult the sailmaker for the recommended diamond wire settings. I had that version of F18 but really can't remember anything about how we used to setup the diamond wires.

It's a bit complicated with that boat, the bottom of the diamond wires was attached in different positions, some were at the front some at the side at various distances from the leading edge. If you haven't changed your spreader rake, start at 40 and go as high as 45 on the Loos guage. You have to have prebend with that mast so if 40 doesn't look like much you could add a bit more, mostly the difference will be your sailing weight. For detailed help you could email Rosco or Warren at "Brisbane Catamaran Centre" in Australia with measurements of your setup including the position of your spreaders, how long they are, what the spreader rake is and your exact attachment point at the bottom.

Yes it is a little tricky...

Found some info from Goose Marine on tuning the 2003-2005 F-18... https://store-cpjif3z.mybigcommerce.com/content/Tuning-guide-F18-2003-Model.pdf


Then there is the "which Loos Gauge" factor... For instance I am using the PT-1 standard and I believe many folks are referring to the Model A tool metric.... not that 3 mm and 1/8" are any different... but the Loos #'s are

So starting at 40 on the model A would be 250 KGS that translates to 550 lbs which is just about 30% of break strength... Looks like 177 KGS/390 LBS should be a good starting point....

I will drop Rosco and Warren a note and get their advice too.... Appreciate your help..

There is a 6% difference in diameter and an 11% difference in area (the important number).

The engineer in my absolutely hates it when people use the numbers off a particular loos gauge as the reading. There is a conversion scale on the side of that thing for a reason. lbs or kgs tension is THE measurement to use to make notes or communicate that reading. It is the only measurement that is scientific and standard.

Does that mean the engineer in you doesn't absolutely hate it when people use units of weight (lb) and mass(kg) when they should use units of force (lbf and N) to measure tension? After, all, force units are the measurement that is "scientific and standard".

I agree, just give me the KGS or LBS setting.... as I found out yesterday there are a few different Loos gauges in the market and each of them have a different scale.... But as person put to me recently "it needs to be dumbed down because people don't want to think anymore."

Isotope.... I am not an engineer, but close.... I love to work on cars and such... hells bells, I'll rip out my VW engine and rebuild it for fun even though it just got broken in from the last rebuild... In my years I have always thought torque and tension (which is what I believe I am measuring with the diamond wires) are two different things.... Is this not the case

As a side note, in college when taking German, we had to translate a book chapter from English to German.... I decided to do the chapter from "How to Keep Your VW Alive.... specifically the engine installation procedure.... had to convert all the Pounds to Newtons setting using paper and pencil.... Pocket calculators we're just coming into the market and we're selling for $100 plus.... Yes..... I am that old!!!!!

{facepalm}, yes, that. I had a coworker throwing up next to me twice this morning before I was able to demand that she go home (I was on two different conference calls with clients at the time and they were listening to it too)....that threw me off my game a little this morning ;-)....although, in my defense, the gauges do list their scales in "lbs tension" or "kg tension"...which I think is still technically correct since it's measured in a static condition and we're not concerned about the effects gravity in this case? I would have to look that up.

If you'd hook us all up with the inline digital force transducer you've likely engineered (from the AC boats), we wouldn't have to use the stone-age Loos gauges!

And I am absolutely sure that flux capacitor you built for that Everglades Challenge boat to your F18 is not class legal... Not to mention your cloaking device

Ok you guys it really is time for you to out of your mom's basement.

Hmmm this is giving me some ideas!



As we say here in the US..."good enough for government work."

I'm grounded till Buzzelli.... (but I did register bit*hes!)

[/quote]

As we say here in the US..."good enough for government work." [/quote]

LOL,

That sounds like like a Jersey comment.

I'm sure your response will be,

"TOUCHE"

No need to engineer it, Harken already makes one using a high resolution strain gauge (much more accurate that an uncalibratable simple spring loos gauge).

Actually leaned that in California.... along with close enough for horseshoes and hand grenades...

you mean Harken USED to make one, discontinued...