what's the best method for deck removal

my 5.5 blew a bow tang (thanks again for the tow in Mike)

I had already broke a side tang a few years ago. we were able to access it (both hulls) without removing a decklid (thanks again mike for the help w that job)

I already have the bow tangs (thanks again mike for getting me a set fabricated a few years ago), but need to remove the decks off my mystere 5.5 and replace both bow tangs

what's the preferred method and tool(s) to minimize deck trama?

All suggestions welcome

THanks!

I had success using something similar to this. https://www.amazon.com/Kutzall-Orig...;m=A1O1VFCSTZHEE&tag=bpyahoo-desk-20 When chucked into an electric drill it allowed me to carefully grind off the deck without damaging the hull.

Something like this would be MUCH better:
https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-oscilla...quopDApACj_gtwi4nzxmOztkTY2LAaAqP78P8HAQ

Thanks Mike I was thinking some type of chisel or similar

They promote using those things for everything - I have one and I have only found a couple of things that it is really good at...weird composite situations are definitely one of them.

Is deck removal one of those weird situations?

I originally did a search on this site using "deck removal" with very few valuable results. After searching "Chisel" I found a bunch of threads (that I vaguely recalled seeing years ago) that had some good input

I've never removed a deck before so I honestly can't say. But, as far as a chisel replacement, yeah - it would work pretty well. They make chiseling blades for them that have no teeth and are just sharp.

I found it was really good for surgical cuts into the outer shell of fiberglass on my J22 where I was removing rotten core from around a chainplate (with a serrated blade). It doesn't throw dust everywhere like a rotary cutting tool so that was nice. It was also the only tool that would make a dent in removing the teak toe rail on the same boat. The toe rail was attached originally with 5200 and was incredibly resistant to being removed. That rail also covers the deck to hull joint so you can't use the 5200 softener without the risk of degrading that major joint. As it was, the toe rail still came up in many tiny pieces but the chisel bit did eventually do the job. If there is a next time, though, I'll probably use a reciprocating saw and a thin sheet of metal to protect the deck from the blade...it was a major PIA and probably took two of us three hours to remove it (of 7!) and get the deck ready for the replacement . We ended up only replacing the one.

gotcha - thanks for the input

Jake, I have found that saw to be the best way to cut glass battens also. I agree that if you had a large deck to cut that a reciprocating saw would be best. Even a small circular saw would be way better than that large, gnarly drill attachment...

I had to avoid the inside fiberglass skin so needed a cut with a somewhat precise depth. I usually use a side angle grinder (large hole) or dremel (small hole) for those kind of cuts. A sanding flap disc in the side angle grinder makes a terrible mess but accomplishes the cut through and tapers the fiberglass skin you will be leaving making it ready for the final glass repair. I use that method if I can be outside on a nice day and use a big fan to blow all the debris toward my neighbors pool. (I'm just kidding about the last part).

someone mentioned a small wire brush on a dremel makes a great core remover when re-bedding deck hardware. Won't tear into the fiberglass skin too much...

Your thoughts, tool man?

btw - this is what Im trying to accomplish (this was a friends mystere a few years ago)

[img]http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery...p;g2_itemId=123588&g2_serialNumber=3[/img]

[img]http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery...p;g2_itemId=123589&g2_serialNumber=3[/img]

I have removed one of the deck on my Nacra using a thin putty knife. Tapping on the handle with a small hammer had push the blade between the hull flange and the deck cover. Go slow and all around and that should do it.

When replacing the deck, would you want to use something less aggressive then 3M 5200 in case you have to remove it again?

5200 will not be used in my repair for the exact reason you stated
I THINK west systems G/flex will be the sealant of choice but I will have to check with Catman for input. He has successfully removed and re-attached several Mystere decks at his shop over the past few years. My pics above are from a friends mystere at his shop

Never use 5200 to put a deck on. Only use that when bedding a fitting or something that gets mechanically attached. I use West 6-10 for the decks. The tube fits a caulking gun.

You know you have to do both sides, right?

i know it would be pretty silly to not do both