Harken carbo ratchamatic experiences?

Have any of you had experience with the Harken carbo Ratchamatic blocks for either main or jib?



(As is typical for this time of year in the frozen north, when you can't sail, you find ways to spend money on new gear in anticipation of Spring! )

Kevin-
I picked up a 7:1 Carbo Ratchamatic system last year (becket hangs from a triple top) and can give an unqualified 10 out of 10. The part number at the time for the bottom was "HSB360"(Harken Small Block 360), I'm not sure what the item number is now. The 8:1 system is just not necessary as I sail a TheMightyHobie18(sometimes as a Magnum.) The adjustment factor is easy and can be accomplished in a short amount of time. Several sailors in my Fleet have commented on how the line run "smooth" through the blocks. I have pics of the set up should you want more. Just email me.
Best Regards,
Troy Szabo

PS - Mid Winters West, yahoo!

My dad's Getaway came stock with a 5:1 all carbo-block system. It works very smooth.

I've used the Harken Ratchamatic blocks on the jib of my Taipan 4.9 for the past 4 years. Not the carbon variety, just the standard ones and they work really well. The blocks will eventually loose their Ratchet and become free running blocks (had one go this season) but after 4 years of hard racing you can't ask too much more.

The blocks on my N6.0 have 75mm (3 inch) sheeves. Since I use a 3/8" mainsheet, though, I can get away with the 57mm sheeves on the ratchamatic. I'm curious as to any negative tradeoffs by going to smaller sheeves (other than being limited to a smaller line size for the sheets).

I'm also really interested in the performance of 57mm carbo ratchamatics for the jib blocks. Anyone use them?

I've been eyeballing those myself. After working myself at Tradewinds regatta and a check of the N6.0 class rules that setup looks mighty attractive!

I do wonder, though, has anyone tried to do any kind of a cascading setup for a N6.0 main sheet? It looks like there might be enough room between the traveler and the main.

The stiffness of the line, type of cover and any coatings would affect the minimum size sheeve required for proper functioning.
A bigger sheeve usually runs line better.
Per Harken, the 3" blocks are designed for a maximum line size of 7/16".
They are at least a little oversized for a 3/8" line.
Most of the newer boats I have seen, Tigers, Foxes, Inters etc. use 57mm/2.25" blocks, some with 3/8" line, some with 7/16" line.
I use 7:1 40mm Carbo blocks with 5/16" Vectran and it runs great.
Both 40mm Carbo blocks together weigh 25.9oz./734gm. 50 feet of 5/16" Lite Speed weighs 16.6oz./472gm. For a total of 42.5oz./1178gm.
A Harken 3.00" base quad(#064) weighs 33oz./936gm. by itself. A triple w/becket(#070) weighs 21.5oz/610gm.

There is a catch 22 about blocks and line size, the cleat.
While the 40mm Carbo blocks are rated for 3/8" line, the Harken carbo cleat(#423) cannot handle 3/8" line.
I had to switch to the Ronstan carbon cleat(#RF5000), it is stronger, cheaper and handles 3/8" line.
The 57mm Carbo blocks come with the carbo cleat(#365) which is only rated for 3/8" line, while the Ronstan is rated for a 1/2" line.

I just got a set of the ones I have featured on the Welcome Page and also ordered mainsheet to go with it. I had the supplier remove some of the cover from the core, so only the core runs through the blocks.
When you ease it, it really releases -- I remember that my old blocks have managed to give me problems in the past. In light air I would do a roll tack, release a little mainsheet.., but alas, the sheet would not go out and the boat would go in to irons or slow way down through the turn. With the new setup, there is no such thing happening.
Also, when sailing along and a puff hits it is a snap to ease the mainsheet a bit and keep on hauling.
No more snapping and tugging, snapping and tugging.
Rick

57mm / 2.25" blocks with 3/8" are what I have run on all my boats. Right now I am running a 7:1, 2.25 with Sampson Ultralite, no carbo's.

I think the rope choice is the major difference. I will never go back to a polyester braid for a mainsheet. Ultralite runs as smooth as silk.

Re stripping off part of the cover on the mainsheet... This was done on my BIM2000 (5/16 with a larger 3/8 cover for the hands) for the Worlds. The sewn-on cover was pretty good, and lasted 2 years of hard use, until the first start on Sunday at the Tradewinds when it suddenly came all apart in a frazzle in the breeze. Even Harken jaws eventually eat the cover: and by now the core was a bit worn.

I decided to change ends and sew the cover back on---but where? Guess? When sheeted in hard, about 1 foot of covered mainsheet want to be inside the blocks, but now its all apart. Arguments?
Also what is best to sew the 2 covers on with? Dacron, waxed Dacron, what size thread (#2,#4, #8?) and where from?

I've used the Harken Ratchamatic blocks on the jib of my Tornado for 3 years with no problem. Mark the little arrows, that tell which way the lines run, in red. It will cut down on the number of times you put them on backwards.

As far as cutting the cover off your main sheet, I have what I think is a better way.

For the mainsheet use a line with braided hollow core for the core. That way you can pull the core out a little and splice spec 12 to it for the taper. The splice is a hollow core to hollow core which even I can do. The splice is almost the same diameter as the original line so it runs smooth. When the taper gets worn, cut it away and splice on more

Having just got my new blocks today, I expect to try them out this weekend. They are really light weight compared to what I have been using.
I will give ya'll a full report after this weekend -- good, bad, or whatever!
Rick

Rick,

Looking forward to the report. You mentioned your new tapered sheet. What diameter did you start out with?

I ordered 3/8" Samson WarpSpeed, although I could have gotten by with 5.16" stuff. They claim WarpSpeed is very good for sheeting and it runs through blocks really well.
Standy by for a report -- hopefully this weekend.
Rick

After fooling around enough with the guys from layline, I can tell you that warpspeed comes off the spool VERY stiff and needs to be worked some in order to run very well.

Also, its a bit rough on the hands for my liking. I don't know, call me old fashioned, but I prefer the good ole XLS west marine special

Yesterday I took the Taipan 4.9 out with the new Carbo RatchaMatic 8:1 Main system and it worked like a charm. This system was all I had expected and perhaps even more. This works almost like the Magic Blocks (although they would not work on this boat because there is not enough room between the boom and the traveler).
In hull flying winds around 12-15 it was really easy to sheet and hold even without using the cleat. Today I will lower the cleat a bit -- it was just a tad too high.., and at my age I use the cleat a lot.
At any rate, when I need to ease the sheet, the system worked flawlessly. I really think the 8:1 is just what the doctor ordered as it really makes it easy to sheet in easily. I remember someone had said that 8:1 is overkill, but I respectfully disagree. It would be perhaps if the sheet did not easily run through the blocks, as my previous system. But, in this case the sheets ran like it was a 4:1.
With my old sheeting system when sailing the T4.9 as a uni-rig I would sometimes blow a tack because of the sheet not running out properly when eased.
When tacking I have the main sheeted tight while sailing close hauled, and then begin my tack with steadily increasing pressure on the helm and working my way to the back of the boat at the same time.
As the boat goes through head-to-wind, I release the mainsheet about 6-8" which lets the leach go slack and also powers up the mainsail to come out of the turn. (You can sort of think of it as a sports car shifting down to 2nd gear while going through a turn)
After the boat is on a close reach heading, I straighten the rudders, cross the boat and go forward and one the boat has good flow across the board, start sheeting in again. (You can sort of think of it as a sports car shifting back to high gear after the speed is back up from a turn)

Those are the basics for a good roll tack.
What used to happen with the old blocks? When I released the sheet, it would not always run out. That kept the leach tight, kept the main flat (not powerful). The tight leach would try to keep the bows weather vaned into the wind longer and really slow down the tack.
With the new system the boat tacks faster than I have ever seen it.

A few little tweaks and it should be perfect.
Rick

Thanks Rick, you just added something to my endless wish list

One of the tweaks I found I needed on Sunday: The sheets run so easily that twice the sheet slipped out of my hand and I T-Bagged myself.
There is a way to adjust the drag on the blocks, however. I may opt to put a little bit more drag on so the sheets do not run quite so freely.
Despite the T-Bagging I managed to keep the boat upright.

I compared the ease of release to my old set and it appeared that the old system would not even let the sheet go loose, while the new Carbo RatchaMatic were great.

I think these are keepers!

Rick

I'll be adding a pair of Harken #2628 blocks to my jib this spring. The idea of the jib sheets running as freely as Rick describes for his mainsheet is very appealing. How durable can I expect the carbos to be compared with the old heavyweights?

I used the carbo ratchamatics for my spin sheets, and also carbo tie-light blocks for the tack/halyard system, as well as for my jib blocks (at the clew). I was wondering myself how they would hold up, especially the tie-light lashings to the spin pole and clew shackle. After a season of races no problem at all with the blocks or the lashings on the tie-lights. Great stuff in my book.

Since I am sailing single handed on a Uni I really don't need the 2628, but I am sure they would keep from blowing a lot of tacks.

Just yesterday I added the 2628 Single RatchaMatic with becket and cleat to our store (We are having to keep adding stuff daily until we get the store filled up). The location is http://store.catsailor.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jrnmromrq

See ya in February,
Rick

The Carbo Single Ratchamatic with becket and cleat is now at http://store.catsailor.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jrnnfnkrk
Sorry about that,
Rick

Rick,

Thanks for your review on these blocks. I had been looking forward to hearing it. I am glad to hear that they are furthering your sailing performance and enjoyment.

GARY