Fat dagger board for Nacra 5.8 help please

I bought a used Nacra 5.8. The dagger boards are identical but the boards won't go down all the way in the starboard well. I am wondering if I should file the lip inside the well down or should I sand down a dagger board to help it fit? I figure it must be the well since both boards have the same problem but work fine in the port hull.

If the answer is to file down the lip of the well should I start with the upper lip or lower? Tramp side or opposite side of the well? Use a fine file or coarse sandpaper over paint stirrer? Thanks for all replies.

have you tried some silicone spray on the board and the well..

That is strange. I guess that there are no obvious signs of a repair job around the daggerboard trunk? The well should only be 'snug' around the daggerboard at the very top and the very bottom - the 'inside the hull' part usually has a lot of clearance but you need to figure out exactly where it is tight before trying to repair. Also look to see if any carpet has been glued to the inside of the daggerboard trunk - it may have balled up and be the cause for the jam.

For most of the 1980s and 1990s (The years the class was really active) we would take the daggerboards and custom fit them to the trunk by filling and fairing the minor imperfections in the well. If you have purchased a replacement board or left your boars ion the car on a hot day you may not be able to get them to go down.

Mark Michaelsen
8 NACRA 5.8s and counting
Love that boat

the top and bottom of your centre board case openings sound as if they have been at some time "tailored" to fit firmly to two centre boards that were slightly different from port to starboard, and that probably the "thinner one of the two has since been replaced with a "standard" one, and therefore the new one now won't fit in the same case opening. If this appears to be the case then ease the centre board into the top of the case, mark with pencil where the tight spots are, remove the c/board and gently file back those areas, testing very regularely with the board for fit, (always dust off the area that you have worked before trying the board and make sure that the board doesn't build up residule on its surface) do this untill the board slides into the top opening. Repeat the process then with the bottom outlet. If there is absolutely no signs at all (either "bog" or "gel coat" build up) that the openings have been "tailored" try ordering a new "slimmer" board for the tighter side. the manufacturer can make a board slimmer to a small degree, when they join the split moulds after the layup of the new centre board. Or you can combine, as described above, with wet rubbing back your board as well, but you will only be able to take off a very small amount from the board before you sand through the "gel coat" and expose the fibreglass in the laminate (which is not advisable) If you sand back the case openings and get the required fit, just finish the top and bottom openings with fine wet and dry paper to about 800 grit.

Rusty,

You should also be aware, that if you are intending on some serious racing, that the shape and size of the foils (daggerboards) are dictated by class rules. You can do some fine tuning of the foil but major changes, or having a slimmer set made, will probably not be "class legal". In this respect, it will be to your advantage to fix the trunk in the hull as opposed to modifying the board. That being said, I seriously doubt that anyone would every protest you because one daggerboard was modified in this manner - but the potential is there.