Options for my Spinny Pole

Need to lengthen my carbon spinny pole by about 20 cm to bring it to the class limit of 4 m total. Been looking at adding a section to the aft or forward end, but can't seem to find a supplier with a section that will fit over or into the 38mm ID x 42.5mm OD of the pole.
Any suggestions?

I can get a completely new pole from Oz for ~$500 USD (including the $150 USD shipping). Would be more attractive if I could split the shipping costs with a double pole order...any takers?

Mike.

What about making or buying the 20cm piece, butt it up end to end, and scab it on with additional carbon or fiberglass. It would be very easy and the loading would be mostly compression if you make the splice nearest the main beam end of the pole.

I've seen an example of a carbon tube made up around a cardboard piece of tubing. After curing, it was immersed in water long enough to make the cardboard soft enough to be scraped out of the center. I thought that was a neat quick/dirty way to make some tubing.

Mike- I had good luck with just inserting an appropriate aluminum tube the right diameter into the inner end of my CF windsurfer mast spin pole. As stated- its all compression. Nothing broke despite running scary fast Wild Thing with the chute up in distance races.

Been looking at this as an option...I'll re-check the ID of my pole, as the closest Alu tube is 1.5"...might be too tight to fit inside the carbon. Would prefer adding the length to the tack (forward) end, since no changes to the snuffer scoop and compression strut post location would be needed.

If I do need to move the carbon Skunk scoop, any suggestions on how to get it off...it's epoxied in place
Lars Guck (builder) recommended a heat gun and careful prying with a "5in1".

Here is interesting setup on 1982 Hobie 18 for spinnaker pole. This boat was for sale on ebay. (auction number 4514324162) His spinnaker pole is adjustable meaning he cold swing it from the Port & Starboard hull.

Here is what the owner told me about his pole:

” This is a "tacking" pole system that I developed that allows the boat to sail with the spinnaker at higher and lower courses compared to competing boats that cannot swing their poles. Thus, when you get headed, you just drop the pole to leaward and keep on your heading when others have to fall off. etc., etc.”

Any comments on the invention?????

I was thinking on replicating it and see how it works on my N6.0

and another one

looks like a lot of string up front.

and good luck getting the pole to move side to side with that bow foil up front, the pelican striker makes that kind of difficult.

I think some experiments were done with moving poles and no great benefit was found.

A butt load of spaghetti. Good thinking though. It could spawn some other developments.

It will be interesting to read about them or see if you have pictures

Mike: If you use a heat gun to 'soften' the epoxy, be very careful! Epoxy fumes are not healthy, much worse than skin contact with the stuff! Protective clothing and pressured air for breating is recommended. If that is not possible, at least wear som filtered breathing mask approved for chemical work.

When that has been said, using a heat gun to soften the epoxy has been done before. Take care to not damage the skunk or your pole tough..

Honestly, I would have considered replacing the carbon pole with an alu. pole, and sold the carbon pole..

Two Replies

To Mike Dobbs

The easiest method I have found for this is to start with a tapered section of carbon wind surfer mast. Find one whose small end is smaller than you need and whose big end is bigger than you need. That way you should be able to cut what you need. Check the local shops, half a mast is normally real cheap from the scrap bin. I would cut a section too small and build it up with Carbon Epoxy. If you are serious let me know and I will tell you how to wrap it.

2nd reply

Hobie 18 Spin Pole

That is not new. It is about the same age as the Hobie 18 design. In fact I have a near identical NACRA 6.0 pole I will sell you cheap (you have to live close to Houston, shipping is $$$$).

It doesn't really let you sail higher or lower. It lets you pinch or luff(?, sail too deep) better.

It is best for distance races. It is great when the desired course is right on the ragged edge of being too high or low. Under those condition you can kill your competition.

Under normal conditions, it is extra weight and windage on the nose of the boat.

The pelican striker is needed, for strength. To make the system work, you have to run it under a bow foil or beam. When you do that it is like breaking something by putting your knee in the middle and pulling on one end.