Cat Trax

Seems noone's answering the phone at the Catsailor store, so maybe someone here can give me a quick answer on this - I need a set of wheels for a Blade F16. Cat Trax apparently come in two sizes 8' and 8.5'. The Blade is 8' 2". Which model do I want? The bigger or the smaller? Does it make any difference? I presume the cradle location on the axle is adjustable, yes?

Incidentally, Cat Trax seem to be in short supply. My local dealer, Hedlund Marine, have been out of stock for a couple of weeks and say the manufacturer can't supply them with any more until at least the first week of September.

Mark.

Have you tried here:-

http://www.cadkat.com/

It's a bit of a weird site, but there is an on-line shop there somehwre for all the various bits (Go to the German site).

Cattrax come without the holes drilled for the cradles. Get the 8.5' version, fit the hulls on the boat with the cattrax and axle underneath. Mark the cradle position on the cattrax axle. Remove everything and then drill the holes to mount the cattrax cradles. I would cut the extra length off the axle or leave a bit sticking out each side for putting a foot on to push.

Thanks Jake. Exactly what I needed to know.

Mark.

Not to hi-jack the trend.... BUT.... Has anyone change the bearing on their Cat Trax? I have on wheel that is shacking side to side more than the other one.

THanks
Todd

If the wheel is going side to side it's probably because the cotter pins that locate the wheel hub are drilled too loosely. You should have cotter pin, large washer, aluminum wheel hub, bearings*, aluminum wheel hub, washer, cotter pin.

*The bearings are large needle bearings that are simply cut from a long stick of round delrin plastic. They're pretty darn durable and even if they wore out, they shouldn't cause play side to side.

If it is a Cat Trax Brand set of beach wheels it is very easy.

1) Remove the cotter pin that is on the inside of the problem wheel.

2) Move the washer and the Delrin washer out of the way.

3) Inspect the Delrin rods (the bearings) and make sure all of them are present. I think it is 20 per wheel.

4) If all rods are present, then remove them and check for wear or degredation.

5) Using one of the existing rods determine the length and diameter of the rods. If you are missing one rod, pull out one of the rods to get the measurement. If I remember correctly they are 6" long and either 1/4" or 3/8" diameter. Don't trust me, jut use as a starting point.

6) Order the appropriate round bar (rod) from McMaster-Carr or MSC. You can access both online. Make sure you order Delrin so the material will be the same as the existing rods.

When you take it apart you will see how simple the bearing mechanism is. This is not a hard repair at all. I just bought a pair about 4 months ago and assembled them. It took about 15 minutes.

Let me know if you have any questions.

My “CAT TRAX >>>> FLORIDA SAILCRAFT FT. LAUDERDALE FLA.” brand wheels are losing air. I’m having trouble finding the leak.
I immersed them in the pool one wheel at a time but no bubbles show up. A few hours later the tire is softer. They seem to be an older style since I bought them new in 1981.

On the side of each wheel it says “MAX INFLATION 65 IN.” OUTSIDE CIRCUMFERENCE” and has a basket ball type filler valve. The circumference measures 66 inches even when they are soft. Tread is still good but there is some age crazing around one of the filler ports on one tire and some cracking on the inside wall of the other tire.

My questions are. Is there a tube or bladder inside the tire that can be repaired? And what is the configuration of the tire internally?

I know it sounds like time for a new set of wheels but they are only 24 years old and have only been around many beaches many times.

Terry

The old style wheels have a tendency to leak in two places - where they are vulcanized to the center aluminum tube (that's why the newer versions have hubs) or the inflation valve.

Try taking an old inflation needle and fill it with silicone or glue. When it's dry, stick it in the inflation valve after you've fully inflated the wheel. That will usually stop that leak.

I used "Automotive Goop" and schmeared it all over the edge of the tire where it met the tube. It stopped that leak.