trailor sail box

What is the best sail box for a trailor? I saw the performance ones that have the door in the end, but I think I would rather have one with the top opens.

You could try making this one and glass it over. Got this off of thebeachcats tech help.

Doug

Instructions for building a Plywood Catbox.

Note: If I can build this box, anyone can as I am a way better sailor than carpenter! This box needed to fit under a Prindle 18 on a trailer.

I started with two sheets of 1/2" 10' x 4' exterior grade plywood. I would have gotten 5/8" but it's not easy to find in 10' sheets as most of the yards sell 8' only. I had the yard cut one sheet down the middle to create two 10' x 24" halves. (so, the overall width of the box is 24")...

This becomes the top and bottom. I had the top one cut one more time across the middle to create two 5'x 24" pieces. I used these two for the lid. I wanted two because it cuts down the lifting weight and makes it easier to open just one side at a time.

I had the yard cut the second sheet into two 10' x 13" pieces (this leaves a leftover of one piece of 10' x 22" to be set aside for the moment). The two pieces are used for the sides of the box. I used 13" because there is approx. 16" of space available under the dolphin striker. Once completed, the height of the box becomes 14". The leftover piece I cut myself to create the doors, one on each end of the box.

I also bought 4 pieces of 2" x 2" x 8' wood. Turns out you only need about 2-1/2 pieces. This wood is used for the side supports.

I cut the supports into pieces 12" tall and mounted them on the bottom edges, 1/2" recessed, pointing upward using screws. Each end of the box has three pieces to provide full support, side, top, side (think of a 3 sided box) screwed into each other, sort of like this |~|

Additionally, I put one more "H" in the middle where the lids meet. For extra strength, I put two other regular supports on each side, spaced a few inches apart, to hold up the side panels.



Got some hinges from Do It Center for the doors/lids and some U-bolts to attach the box to the trailer. I put Astroturf on the bottom of the box after priming and painting so that the rudders,etc. would slide in easier.

Had my 7 year old daughter paint something on one of the doors but it already faded in the rain!

That's more or less the plans. I spent about a week working on it, probably 12-14 hours or more. Lots of that was thinking time 'cause I had no idea how to do certain things. I spent 40 minutes one day figuring out how to do one hinge! Dumb. Anyway, everything fits in and that's all I wanted in the first place! It's just not all that pretty!

Total cost of the parts was around $100 (Socal area stores)

The Hobie dealer in Sacramento, CA makes a fiberglass box that has a removeable top.

Doug,
I pretty much did the same thing.
Using 1/2 ply made it 9ft x 3ft. Single lid that runs on 4 x 2 inch rubber wheels.
Lift the back edge of the lid 2 inches and just give it a push and it opens right up. Also give it a push and it closes and seals all round so no matter what the weather or driving conditions everything inside stays dry.
Layer of 135gm glass with epoxy on the outside with a coat of polyurethene. So easy to open and close while the bot is still on the trailer.

Did what I wanted.

Regards,
Phill

Here is my trailer box.........

Now THAT is a trailer box!!!

Both boxes I've had were/are accessible from the rear of the trailer. First one was all fiberglass and had door/hinge issues. Would be OK if the door would open 180 degrees without stressing the fiberglass. Second one is a slide out wooden box with a metal framework (homebuild).

I need the easy access to the box while the boat is loaded on the trailer, from the end, because I either forgot to put something in it, or want to get something out to fiddle with.

Could you tell us how it was done?

I have a box made by the super rudder folks. Might not be available any longer. The entire top comes off and is locked at both ends. Also have the Hobie box with bungees on the end cap and a cap at the front that leaks. The Hobie box is crap but lightweight. I have seen several stainless boxes that are very nice but expensive.

Doug; I couldn't find anything at beachcats, just a tube?

Pete:

In the Do It Yourself Tips. Try this link:

http://www.thebeachcats.com/modules...&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0

Doug

Sure 'nough, it's right there. Guess I shoulda read instead of looking for a picture!

Replace the bungees with hasps so you can lock it. If you put weather stripping on the cap and hatch it won't leak. Mine doesn't.

All folded steel, lined with marine carpet, split lids on gas struts...... Painted with 'Hammer Coat'

I really like the sheet metal box that came with the Boyer Flyer. Like most things Australian its lite, simple, and works real well. I don't know the specifics but its just thin galvenized sheet metal with the cover on top that any sheet metal shop should be able to knock together pretty cheap. From what I've seen the wood boxes are heavy, the FG boxes are Expen$ive and the boxes that open on the end get left open when traveling occasionally (you know who you are), right Chris? My 2 cents. Ed

That they do!

T_A, did you just use the same trailer you had for the T for your cap? Do all standard width cats have to be on tilts over in AUS?

Can't imagine that it helps your gas mileage having to trailer the cap tilted.

Had a new trailer built. The base of the trailer and arm mount spacing is built for a Tornado whilst I have had the arms made up to suit the F-18 narrower across and a foot shorter on the vertical. When I get a T again I will likely have longer tilt arms made up for this trailer. Will then be able to trailer either by only changing tilt arms.

AUS vehicle width limit is narrower by a few inches than the F-18 beam. Therefore we must trailer on the tilt to be legal. I also feel a bit more comfortable trailering on the tilt as

- People are a bit more causious around you
- One hull is above the trafic
- Max width is at the wheels which also makes it easier to trailer between the road markings.
- Top access to the trailer with the boat on the trailer

Don't realy notice the difference in windage / mileage

T-cats are always flying a hull, in and out of the water!

PLUS IT LOOKS COOLER

AND WE ALL KNOW THATS WHAT REALLY COUNTS

This is so true. I have an Aussie-built camper trailer that is all of these things and more. It's made by 3 Dog Camping and is painted with "Hammer Coat" and so far has been kid proof (which is much tougher than bomb proof.) I have a spare can of this paint that came with the camper for touchups but can't find it in the U.S. The trailer has loads of storage and acts as my gear box. I use a tube on the trailer for sails, boom and other long stuff

To save weight, I just built my box out of "door skin". It's thin plywood used for those cheapie doors that are hollow. Then, just glassed over them. Designed doors on the ends that flap down so I could slide sails in from either end. Put some reinorcement (1" x 1" wood) on inside edges (except for bottom so I could slide stuff in/out) and glassed them.

I could stand on the top with that system, and it was lighter than the standard 1/4" plywood method. Also, it was cheap enough to replace every other year if need be (some of the edges start dry-rotting if you're not careful with the glass). Painted it white (flat exterior paint) to look nice.