replacing track rivets

we have some loose rivets on the jib and main tracks, trying to replace them. (older H16)

is there a trick for the nail in the rivet not to fall in while riveting ? using an arrow rivet tool... while releasing the handle to pull again, sometimes the nail fall in. i've used the tip of a screw drive to hold it, but not ideal. or do we need a better tool :-)

also, are there special flatter rivets to prevent the travelers from rubbing on the rivet head ? i've tried to flatten one but it loosens it... the traveler desn't really catch but rubs just a little.

I've had similar problems, best thing I came up with was to stick the tip of a screwdriver against the pin before you start releasing the handle, very dificult to do on your own and probably could be solved with a better tool.

You can get counter-sunk rivets

There are a few tricks. First, I use a little piece of scotch tape on the back of the rivet to hold the shaft in so that it doesn't fall through the rivet and into the beam. Usually when that happens, it is on the second squeeze, so you end up having to drill the rivet back out again. You need to use stainless countersunk rivets and they run about a buck each.

I have one of those industrial rivet pullers that has long handles and looks like bolt cutters. You can get them on eBay at a great price and I really recommend them if you are dealing with stainless rivets. I took the head and ground off two sides so that it fits into the traveler track and sits flat on top of the rivet on the bottom of the track. Works like a charm.

Also, when using stainless, don't be in a hurry to aqueeze it. You end up poping the rivet too soon and it doesn't set well. The best way is to slowly but firmly squeeze it and get as many pulls as you can.

Man, that sounds perverted, but I'm talking boat parts!

Couple of points...

The rivets have to be flat head and counter sunk. Some rivet heads vary in diameter. You may have to drill the track a little deeper and with a slightly larger diameter bit to get the hole to match the rivet head. Test the fit in the hole before pulling (pulling would be the act of setting the rivet, pulling the pin through).

To keep the pin in the rivet, I just tip the rivet gun slightly. That causes the pin to wedge in the rivet a bit when releasing the handle for the next bite.

Place the rivet in the tool first and hold the pin in with your finger. Take an initial squeeze with the gun to grip and hold the pin. Be sure to do it lightly as not to compress the rivet at all. Slide the rivet into the hole and get the first squeeze. Tip the gun slightly before releasing the handle. Hold it tipped till you get the next bite on the rivet. Repeat if necessary.

If you can borrow a pnuematic riveter it makes life much easier. Those stainless rivets are tough on the hands, and they seem to set more consistantly, and tighter.

thks for the advice ! we've ordered countersunk rivets, they're on the way and borrowed a friend's rivet gun which doesnt drop the rivet...

i replaced my main travaler rivets with small bolts, it worked a treet but you need a tool to make a thread in the holes you drill in your beam

A tap?

How does the traveler clear the bolts? If the rivets stick up a little bit it gets snagged.

One trick I use for rivets that are in a track or recessed in a cleat is to place small washers as spacers between the top of the rivet and the head of the puller. Works like a charm!

countersunk bolts same as the countersunk rivits