Tiller replacement

The tiller that came on my boat is a piece of junk. It's a 3 piece aluminum one that won't lock.

I'll be single handing 80% of the time. The hot stick costs more than I would like to spend. I I'd like to be somewhat class legal, though it sounds like small events don't abide be the requirements.

I've thought about the paint stick idea, but am not sure about the funcionality and adjustment options.

What are my options? Cheap and class legal?

The stock Hobie tiller extension is $80.

I used a piece of 3/4" EMT conduit for the first year I had my H16. I just glued a dirtbike grip on for the end. For where it mounts to the tiller x-bar I just flattened it out a little bit and drilled a hole through for the pin. I also had to grind the end so it was round and would clear the hinge yoke. Spray painted it black and it worked well enough.

It was heavy!! but worked.

I can afford the hotstick, I'm just cheap and can't justify the cost when it's being applied to a 28 year old H16.

Perhaps I'm thinking too much into it. I'm leaning towards the telescoping paint stick because I am cheap. I'm short, 5'4", so I might even be able to get away with a longer fixed length tiller extension.

My two issues of concern are:

1. It's noticeably heavier than it's 3 piece aluminum counterpart. Will the additional weight be an issue?

2. I'm not accustomed to boats that require trapping out, so I'm not sure on telescoping etiquette. The adjustment point for telescoping is at the base, will this be a nuisance when I have to adjust it to trap out?

Here is what I've got. 52" collapsed, 96" expanded. Uses a collar at the base, with a "cam action" to lock. I was planning to drill out the rivet and remove the threaded end. Then I plan to attach the connecting piece from the old tiller using an aluminum sleeve, glue, and rivets. The glue/ silicone would be to snug it up so it doesn't wiggle at the rivets.

What is wrong with the standard Hobie tiller extension? I used one for years (since 1985) and only switched to a Hot Stick a couple of years ago. I bought used sails from someone who threw in the Hot Stick with the deal. Even then I stayed with the standard tiller until it started to wear out from rubbing on the side rails. Fiberglass particles were getting in my hands. I may switch back to it if I can coat it with resin to seal in the fiberglass.

Howard

I don't have one, I have a broken aluminum one that came with the boat. Don't want to spend $80+ right now.

Having a proper tiller extension is alot nicer than having something jury rigged up. Whether it be the stock one, or a Hotstick.

I didn't think the standard tiller extension costs $80. I think there might be people out there who have upgraded to a Hot Stick who would be willing to part with the standard one for a small amount of money.

Howard

Does the standard extension telescope for a trapped skipper?

You're right, check the newest, 2008-2009, catalogue with the updated (increased) prices.

20550001 TILLER EXT H14/H16 OS $89.25 OS is oversized, a bump on shipping costs

ouch, my catalog said $80.

The standard tiller extension does not telescope. Its basically a fibre glass pole with a yoke, and a foam grip. I thought they were too flimsy feeling compared to the hotstick anyhow, but realistically flexability might not be such a bad thing.

I guess I am out of touch with the latest costs. I bought my boat new in '85 and have not needed many parts for it in spite of a lot of use. I broke a tiller extension at one time and bought a replacement for somewhere in the $20 range. I still have it though the fiber is getting in my hands. It is long enough to hike out on the wire and I like it better than the hot stick. Once, going out through the surf I dropped the hot stick. I was moving so fast that I couldn't pull it back until I got through the surf and could point up. It did some damage to the connecting link. The standard tiller extension is more flexible and a smaller diameter and would not have caused the same problem.

Howard

What's the length on the standard one? I see some other generic dingy tillers that are cheaper and look like they'll adapt.

96"? I think.

84"

By far the cheapest solution I think would be mine but most likely far from class legal. As I do sail alone majority of the time I must improvise occaisionally having only 2 hands. Has cost me more than 1 tiller bar already so now I use an oridinairy bamboo cane bought at a local garden centre. Available in sizes 9 to 12". I use ± 10". Not always handy but sailing alone seldom a problem. I use a small alu tube with 2 holes to connect the bamboo to the alu tube. Amazingly enough I use common electrical installation wire to lock bamboo to alu. No problems with our extreme salty conditions / can be removed without tools / re-usable and lasting !!! On the other end of the alu tube I use a small piece of re-inforced gas hose as joint to the cross bar. Thus I have an additional flexible connection. In spite of all this I manage to demolish my bamboo creation sometimes but that's affordable. Got spare one at the club and can change in minutes. As said before without tools. Has saved me a lot of money already.

Only 1 remark: in extreme shallow waters - when the ruddders are kicked up - I choose to hold the cross bar till enough depth again. As the rudder blades are not balanced anymore the force might even exceed limitions of my bamboo tiller construction....

Fellow sailers use same system on Tornado...

Are you saying the bamboo section is 10 INCHES long or 10 FEET long? I am having a hard time picturing trapezing with a 10" tiller extension. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Mary,

I'm sorry you're absolutely right. Tried to convert our European sizes to yours but used wrong symbols. Thanks for remark.

And indeed: size used even exceeds the size of the original. When sailing up-wind and positioning my body close to the shrouds trapezing I need full length !!

Eddie van Leeuwen

["preparing" for Round of Texel June 7th !!]

G'day Ryan if you want cheap and reliable heres a picture of an offcut of electrical conduit given to me by an electrician you can clearly see the flex and it works fine. Just bung the end you hold with a cork and tape.
regards

Well, I went on the cheap. I made one out of a paintstick for $12 and Bought a stock one for $30 used.

I figure I can keep the stock one for racing and use the cheap aluminum one for goofing off with friends on the boat, when I'm at the back of the tramp and traveled out.