What makes the best righting line

I just bought a much newer 16 (2004). My old boat is a 78. What I didn't notice when I picked up that the boat was that it didn't have a rigting line.

I have a spare non Hawaiian righting line that I have never used. The old boat has a Hawaiian righting line. Can anyone advise me on which system works best. If the Hawaiian is the better system, then I'll move it onto the new boat.

The Hawaiian system works great.

If you can transfer the Hawaiian system then do it. But, as the assembly manual advises, an old mainsheet cut to length works well too. Tie it to the vertical post on the dolphin striker and stuff the rest in the tramp pocket - no problem righting the boat with this.

I am going through this same issue right now. The boat I just bought has no righting line (What is that about?) so I am trying to decide what is best. Back in the late 70's some guys in our fleet came up with their own "Hawaiian" system. The advantage of this system is that it can be used to hold onto when trapped out.

We used old mainsheet with a bowline on both ends. It was tied with smaller cord to deck just at the transom. The other end stopped at the front pylon. In between, at 18" intervals a knot was tied. The pylon end was attached to shock cord that looped around a couple of blocks.

When I resurrected this system back in about 1994, I had a hard time getting the tension on the shock cord right, so I used a figure eight to "Stop" the rightline from going out. This knot was between the shcok cord and the small eylet riveted to the front pylon.

All of that being said, my new(relative term) boat has no eyelet on the pylon and no hole drilled in the deck at the transom.....

This sort of thing worked great, but I am considering buying the hawaiin rig in the catalog, rather than trying to reinvent the wheel. I prefer this type of system to the single righting line or the mainsheet/ dolphin striker bar. I tried that just before I went back to the hawaiin system in 94.....I kept loosing the end of the rope through the trap lacing and it never would stay where you put it. But it DOES work and works well to right the boat.

I have the "Easy Rite" and yesterday while solo on my 16 she decided to see if I could right her after an unplanned swim. I couldn't get the line to stretch over the airborne hull. Although stretchy, it was very difficult to get ahold of. I ended up getting towed back to shore in shame.

my righting system is really simple.

2 pecies of line Not sure of length probably 12' to 14' each

bowline knot one end of each to front pylons

then tie loose end of each line to opposite rear pylon. This makes a cross under the tramp.

While the boat is knocked over, untie the end of the rope from the rear pylon that is in the water toss over upper hull and there you have a righting line.

works really well with 2 people. Solo, I plan to add a righting bag of some configuration.

Sam

The easy right is not intended to pull up over the hull. Simply pull down straight towards you. Adjust the length of the system for comfortable hanging at the right angle.

This was tested at Hobie some time ago... It is not critical to throw the line over the hull, it just makes it a little easier to right. Takes the same weight either way. The difference is in body compression pushing the low hull in rotation compared to the top hull. With the line over the top, the weight is dead hanging from the line and there is minimal body compression pushing against the low hull. With the line pulled straight towards you from the pylon you get less weight pulling down, but much more compression pushing on the low hull. Both ways seem to rotate the boat for righting at about the same rate.

The simplest righting line is a 15 foot length of 1/2" diameter. Tied around the forward crossbar at the striker. Looped in such a way as it can be pulled in either direction and still bare load on the post and not the tramp. Tuck the excess in a tramp pocket. When needed, simply pull free of the pocket and toss over the upper hull. A couple of knots to grip is a good thing.

The Hawaiian system is the best. No tramp pockets required and stows itself after use. For new crews, it can also be used as a chicken line.

JMHO

I guess I need to drink more beer to gain weight. I knew that a 180lb solo sailor shouldn't be able to right a 16 alone, but I think the boat wanted to prove something to me that day.

How much weight does it take to right a 16?

I used to race under 285... maybe 280ish. That is enough. I would get my crew on my shoulders for more leverage if I wanted to right faster.

Matt,
Do you think that a Righting Bucket in combo with my Easy Rite would work for solo?

Yes. Of course, it depends on the total weight of you plus the bag.

Hi. Looking for a diagram on adding a Hawaiian system. I have looked at the picture in Murrays but not so clear. I have all the parts and have attempted an installation but just not sure. Thanks.

Try this.

Nice diagram, hobie1616, but why not secure the righting line to the rear pylons instead of the rudder pins or drilling a hole?

Secondary use is a chicken line. It it's attached to the rear pylon the angle is too severe.

Oh yeah, tie some knots in the line for a better grip.

Thanks for the diagram. Good sailing.

Okay, what's a chicken line?

Ok last dumb question. Righting line inside or outside the main shrouds.

outside...primarily for the chicken aspect

The crew can grab the righting line to hold themselves in place. Between that and the jib sheet they're locked into place. Usually used by noobs. Once they've got their sea legs the jib sheet usually does the job.

What's a Chicken doin on a Cat???

Good Info here! I never even considered having a righting line on my H16 (Newbie mistake No. 1). I'll be reti=hinking that This coming season.

Ok Guys,

I want to point out some observations ....

None of the H16 A-fleeters that I know use the Hawiian system for one BIG reason ... it drags in the water and makes you SLOW!!!!

I did have a Hawiian system years ago on my TheMightyHobie18 ... and removed it, I still have it in the garage somewhere. Then I assembled and tried a self retracking system that was installed fore/aft down the centerline of the boat under the tramp .... it dragged also.

So I went back to the tried and true approximently 20' of 3/8" LINE tied to the dolphin striker and kept in a Murray's Tramp Pack that I have installed on the tramp. If I need it, it's easily deployed and thrown over the upper hull. Now remember when sizing a righting line the greatest length required is for righting a boat from a turtled position .... make sure you size it accordingly.

And this is one of my "pet peaves" ... THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A ROPE ON A BOAT/WATERCRAFT!!!! Once a rope is attached to a boat it is called a LINE!!!!

That was the first thing the ol'timers taught me when I first started boating as a youngster, those oh some many years ago ..... (JFK was President I think at the time ... or was it Eisenhauer)

A grumpy ol'fart/seadog
HarryMurphey
H18mag/P19MX