Ideas for 4X8 trailer conversion to boat trailer?

Problem: My aluminum boat trailer is rated at 500 lbs. My H16 weighs around 360 lbs, which leaves only 140 lbs for extra out-of-car storage for 2 adults & 2 kids for a 2 wk beach vacation. I know the load rating of trailers is customarily under-rated (by up to 50%) for safety and liability concerns, and I probably packed well over 140 lbs worth of cargo on it last year. It trailered fine, but I am wary of aluminum due to the possibility of microscopic stress fractures followed by catastrophic failure.

Solution (?) I have a 4 X 8 foot utility trailer rated at 2000 lbs that I used to take to the beach before I got my Hobie. I hope to convert it to carry my H16. Has anyone ever done a project like this? I have two possible plans.

1. Follow the general layout of my existing cat trailer and attach 2 treated 4 X 4 in. beams (about 8 ft long) across the front and rear ends of the trailer bed, and then attach rollers to the beam ends for the hulls to rest on, OR...

2. I have removable sides I made for this trailer using 2 x 4's for the frame with 1 X 4's attached to them as the siding material. The assembled box is about 3 ft high, and has an optional top made of 1/2 in. plywood. After packing this box I could lift the boat's frame onto the top of the box. This would mean the boat would be resting on its frame, with the hulls hanging unsupported. I am unsure if this will stress or damage the hull pylons during the 900 mile round trip. Or I could put it upside down on the top of the box(?).

Does anyone know if it is inadvisable to transport a Hobie 16 this way? Any other ideas/comments?

(Yes I know I will have to install the three extra running lights on the rear of the trailer).

Thanks

Mark Owens
1976 H16 sail # 19857

Mark,

You are proposing the exact way I have built my trailer. The only exception is my frame is new. The hints taken from people include the following.

1:) Paint the treated lumber.
2:) Mount the boat, then space and mount rollers to assure they are centered to keels.

Mike

>> Problem: My aluminum boat trailer is rated at 500 lbs.
Are you sure about this load rating? The Trailex aluminum trailers I have seen are NICE and folks have loaded them up with all sorts of boxes, bike racks, etc.

>> Solution (?) I have a 4 X 8 foot utility trailer rated at 2000 lbs that I used to take to the beach before I got my Hobie. I hope to convert it to carry my H16. Has anyone ever done a project like this?
Cat trailers typically have a much longer tongue than utility trailers. Make sure you have sufficient clearance between the bows and the tow vehicle for tight radius turns.

>> 1. Follow the general layout of my existing cat trailer and attach 2 treated 4 X 4 in. beams (about 8 ft long) across the front and rear ends of the trailer bed, and then attach rollers to the beam ends for the hulls to rest on, OR...
This will work.

>>2. I have removable sides I made for this trailer using 2 x 4's for the frame with 1 X 4's attached to them as the siding material. The assembled box is about 3 ft high, and has an optional top made of 1/2 in. plywood. After packing this box I could lift the boat's frame onto the top of the box. This would mean the boat would be resting on its frame, with the hulls hanging unsupported.
Many A Class cats are trailered this way but I have not seen it done with a H16.

Mike...

Thanks for the reply! Which plan did you go with?

As you have already done this, would you share some of your experience with me regarding a few questions I have?

a) The hitch on my boat trailer is about a foot longer than my utility trailer (if the boat is centered over the trailer bed). Did you have this problem? Could this cause the hulls to hit the back of the towing vehicle in a tight turn? I could move the boat back a bit if I compensated by putting heavier items forward on the trailer bed, or I could look for a hitch extension.

b) My boat trailer has two upright attachment posts for the mast. Did you make a mast holder? If not, how do you transport your mast?

c) If you went with plan 2, are there any concerns about the hulls hanging unsupported?

Thanks

Mark Owens
1976 H16 sail # 19857

Hi CMerrell...

Looks like you were posting while I was replying to Mike. Yes, the info plate on the side of the tongue says max capacity is 500 lbs. It's really light, and as old as my boat. It also has an aluminum patch welded to one of the two frame rails that diagonally split off from the tongue, where they were bent back to be parallel with the tongue. Even with just the boat on it, when trailered it flexes and bends alot--it makes me nervous. I know there are more sturdy trailers made, I have seen pics of trailers that carry two cats stacked.

You noted my tongue length concern, if I cannot find a hitch extension then I will move the boat back and obtain my 40/60 balance by placing heavier item at the front of the trailer bed.

I suppose if no-one has seen a Hobie trailered with the hulls unsupported, then it likely should not be done.

Thanks for your input!

Mark Owens
1976 H16 sail # 19857

Mark,
Do you have a 2" receiver hitch? If so, long drawbars are available. One good source is the Hitchhaul Company. They make those "back porches" that fit into trailer hitches. I have seen them in the J.C.Whitney catalog.
If you need to move a boat back on a trailer, you can restore balance by moving the axle back. Many cat sailors have overloaded the front of their trailer with boxes and containers and should adjust the axle location if possible.

Holden,

Please see response's

a) The hitch on my boat trailer is about a foot longer than my utility trailer (if the boat
is centered over the trailer bed). Did you have this problem? Could this cause the hulls
to hit the back of the towing vehicle in a tight turn? I could move the boat back a bit
if I compensated by putting heavier items forward on the trailer bed, or I could look for
a hitch extension.

I extended hitch via 1/2x 2 CRS (cold rolled steel). The length is of your choosing. The mounting holes simply copied and welded original hitch onto extension. We are not talking extreme loading, thus CRS the way to go. The drilling done in local machine shop and welding at autobody shop. They cost a total of 20.00 plus a six pack on Friday for welder.

b) My boat trailer has two upright attachment posts for the mast. Did you make a mast
holder? If not, how do you transport your mast?

The posts you presently have should be retrofitable to new trailer, I am going to construct out of CRS tube, with rubber for nest. A plate on bottom and welded onto frame. I expect to clear boat about 3 feet for possible flexing.

c) If you went with plan 2, are there any concerns about the hulls hanging
unsupported?

When you make frame, stay about 2 feet from bow and stern. PS: This is the old way of towing, not new diesns and they say old ways are the best.

I will send pics in a couple of weeks.

Sam...

Sorry for the delay in answering, but I routinely end up helping a lot of folks I work with do their taxes.

No 2" receiver, just the 1 1/4" type. I've seen up to a 10" extension for a 1 1/4" receiver, but it apparently cuts your tongue and load weight in half.

I don't know if I can move my axle back, as all the suspension attachment points are welded on the frame.

Perhaps we should take less than 140 lbs of stuff to the beach!!

Mark Owens
1976 H16 sail # 19857

Mike...

Thanks for the responses. I will look into extending the hitch at my local metal shop as you suggested.

Unfortunately, the front mast support post is an intergrated part of the frame structure that cannot be removed. I wonder if I could remove the boat trailer's wheels and hitch and just attach the remaining boat-supporting portion to the bed of the utility trailer. It might work...

Mark Owens
1976 H16 sail # 19857