upgrades for 16

trying to make my 1986 hobie 16 more updated.Have added 6:1 blocks,low profile jib blocks,jib traveller.Debating on wether to add hobie 20 style tiller connectors or race rudders.Thoughts on which would add better performance to the boat?
thanks

Race rudders would add performance especially up wind.

The H20 tiller connection kit is basically for ease of use. If you break down your rudder system before trailering it is a nice thing to have.

Wel i owned an 1986 boat and i now own a new hobie 16. The jib cars are a great idea. The hobie 16 race rudders are great and they dont need a hobie 20 set up on them not at all. Im only 17 and the difference between the new boats isn't very much if you own a good hobie 16 but its a speed and is alot easyer to use.

I'm in the same boat...ha ha...upgrading a 1980 H16. I'm planning to do race rudders and the jib blocks. Here are my questions, with apologies if this has been covered elsewhere in the forum.

On the jib system: which is better, swivel cams on the traveler cars, or on the cross bar? Seems to me, putting them on the traveler cars means one less thing I've got to rivet into the crossbar. But are those cars harder to cleat and uncleat under load? Are there other advantages to one system or the other?

Second: Assuming I can't find EPOs, what are the best racing blades out there -- Hobie? Foss? -- and are they available used or do you have to pony up for the new set.

Thanks in advance and happy sailing.

Al

I've had both versions of the jib sheet systems; there are advantages and disadvantages to both:

Cleat on the traveler:
PRO
1) Simpler
2) Doesn't require you to sheet out as much when you move the traveller
3) No cleat on the crossbar in the crew's face or in the way when the crew takes a header over the crossbar during a pitchpole.

CON
1) Sheeting angle changes as you travel out. Makes it hard to uncleat from the wire when travelled out.
2) On older boats (w/o integrated tracks), sits up a little higher, so you can't sheet in as tight (affects mast rake)

Cleat on the crossbar:
PRO:
1) Low stack height, more potential mast rake
2) Consistent cleating angle - easier to uncleat

CON:
1) Requires more sheet; sheet must run out as you travel out
2) Cleat on the crossbar will take out chunks of flesh if you pitchpole and slide forward off the boat.
3) More complex; more inherent friction.

It boils down to personal preference. For an older boat, I would tend to go with cleats on the crossbar so I could reduce the stack height. Mast rake has more effect on speed than almost anything else, especially in heavy air.

Rudders:
EPO's are the best, but good ones are very hard to find now.
I've got the Hobie race rudders on my boat & I've got no serious complaints other than the gelcoat finish is soft compared to the rock hard finish on the EPO. Every rudder I've ever had on a 16 (PVC, Lexan, EPO, fiberglass) have required "finish work" to clean up the leading and trailing edges. The leading edge needs to be round and smooth; the trailing edge needs a 1/16" squared off edge to prevent humming and flow separation. I also wet sand the entire blade to get rid of the mold release wax and promote flow adhesion.

I have a set of refinished EPO rudders I would part with.

Thanks guys. I'm inclined toward the cam on the traveler system, just to avoid the sheeting issue and having to drill more holes in my crossbar. But if the mast rake issue is really crucial, shout!

Barry, on the epos, let me know what you're asking.

Happy sails!

Al

what about 'glassing plastic rudders- is this feasible? we used to do (wood)sunfish rudders to make them bigger and stiffer, it was legal as a method of 'refinishing'. would the epoxy/glass (or carbon) adhere?

You could try it, but the rudders probably wouldn't be class legal anymore (too thick). A lot of hand work, too in getting the finish smooth (critical on the 16). Practically nothing sticks to Lexan, so I wouldn't recommend it on them. The PVC rudders have a nasty tendency to snap just below the rudder casting.

Unless you're really into experimentation, I'd just get the foam core / fiberglass rudders and be done with it. (Less time in the shop, more time on the water.)