Buy new or re-build?

Hello,
<br> I have a 1979 Hobie 16 and my hulls are beyond repair. I was going to buy a new set of hulls and found out that the difference in price between a new set of hulls and a whole new Hobie 16 was not that much ($1,500) considering I would be getting everything new. I have either two options to choose from. The first one is to buy a new set of hulls with new corner castings so the catamaran is much tighter and is up to date. I already have a new trampoline, new mainsheet, and new sails (*non-class legal though*) . The second option is to buy a whole new Hobie 16 and part the boat out and make up the difference there. Does anyone have any sugestions why I should or shouldn't buy a whole new Hobie 16 and part the old one out ? Does a mast get to a point where it should be replaced? It is as straight as an arrow. Thanks for all your help guys.....
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Your best bet is to part the boat out. Selling the parts will give you a good downpayment on a solid used Hobie or bite the bullet and buy a brand new one. Masts, good used tramps, rudder blades, sails are generally easy to sell. Buying new hulls is definitely not the right thing to do.
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<br>Good Luck
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<br><br><br>Stew Barcalow
<br>Fort Lauderdale

I understand from reading this forum that at a certain year Hobies lost weight. Maybe 1984. If I lost a hull, I would certainly search for a used boat since it and it's trailer would be cheaper than buying a replacement hull.
<br>Greg
<br>G14, H16<br><br>

I would find it hard to justify a new H16. They are in the $6,000 range. See what 6 grand buys in the classified section of this site.
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<br>With all of the new parts you have, maybe buying a used boat newer than 1984. A 84 + will have a red hull/deck joint.
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<br>I've seen alot of 16's in the $800 to $1,200 range with all accessories, trailer, beach wheels etc.
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<br>It's tuff to beat a 16 for the bang to buck ratio.<br><br>

So . . . How does one go about efficiently parting a boat out? Sell parts to one of these used parts outlets? Sell parts in classifieds? Given that Used Hobies/parts are all over the country, does it become cost effective to ship parts?<br><br>

Thanks for all your info guys... The problem with finding a new used cat is Hobie changed the corner castings in 1994. If I could find a Hobie after 94 then I am set, but that seems to be the problem. The newer corner castings and plyons take care of the hulls moving indendantly. The system makes flying a hull easier, cutting through wakes faster and such... I sailed a post 94 and let me tell you how nice it is to tack in choppy seas with the new set up... right around with little loss in speed. If I do choose to buy a new Cat, the new set of class legal sails is going to be nice to race with. You go about by parting the boat out by placing the part on E-bay and there is always people that i know that want parts. Shipping is a extra cost, but paying Hobie prices is alot more though. Again thanks for all your input guys... This forum is the best....<br><br>

buy a used boat and glue the corner castings to make it tighter. My 86 and later 95 boat both had the corner castings glued to help hold the hulls more solidly. you could like the bow from either side and the two hulls moved as one. sold the 86 for less than 2000 and the 95 for 3500.
<br>also 95's do not have the new improved corner castings, just the intergrated traveler tracks for jib and main sail
<br>tom&nancy H16&H20 tulsa ok<br><br>

Tom&Nancy
<br>The Hobie catalogue says new corner castings started 1994. Do you have evidence to the contrary?
<br>Greg, H14,H16<br><br>

you are correct, the new corner castings came out in 95.....they were proablt just mistaken..<br><br>

Just got my response from Hobie USA Co. and they indicated that the new Euro H16 corner casting started to be placed on new H16's in 1995, and that 1994 was the last year the old corner castings were used. Also here is the info. I got about the difference between the old and new Euro corner castings.
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<br>::::::: There are several diffrences. The euro casting has a jib traveler sheave mounted in a molded housing. The old are flush and you have to mount an external cheek block for the traveler line. The new castings use a smaller pylon that is easy to identify. The old is a Hobie 14 mast extrusion with
<br>a luff track slot in the rear. The new pylon is a closed tube... no slot.
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My H16 is an '83 model and quite loose between the pylon and castings. I've looked in to epoxying them but have never been satisfied with the dimensional data and techniques I've dicovered. Does anyone have the "definitive method" including where and how to measure etc..?<br><br>

There is a article about epoxing the castings together at www.catsail.com.... click the archieves link and type in rivets in the search box.... it should bring you to the page. If not e-mail me back....<br><br>

I found the website for you.....
<br>http://www.catsail.com/archives/v3-i2/feature1.htm<br><br>

Thanks for your attention to my question. I have this article but I feel it's pretty weak. Using this method you may do more damage than good in my opinion. The diagonal measurements being equal will only result in a geometry with the hulls side-by-side. However, they may not be parallel. In addition, there is nothing there to check the angle at which the pylon leaves the casting (mine are REALLY sloppy).
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<br>I think I could get the info to do the job to my satisfaction if I had a new (or in perfect condition) 16 to take some measurements on.<br><br>

I am not sure where you live, but I would more than happy to give you measurements in about 3 months.... I am rebuilding (* with new hulls *) to fix alot of problems with my H16.... Just tell me what measurements you want I will email you them when I re-assemble my boat.....<br><br>

I'd recommend parting the old boat out and buying a relatively new used boat, as in 1995 or newer with class legal sails. This way if you decide to race you are all setup for it. <br><br>