Righting line termination. Rudder pin vs rear pylo

What is the advantadge to terminating the righting line to the rudder pin as opposed to the rear pylon? I'm reworking mine and when I purchased the boat 12-14 years ago it was rigged in a Hawaian style but terminated at the rear pylon. I'm wondering if there is some advantadge to going all the way to the rudder. Thanks.

H16. I have large bungie from aft pylon around to aft pylon. Works well for me. Can't think of a good reason to go to the pin re leverge or righting advantage. I sail alone and use a righting bag with a 5:1 pulley to raise it out of the water. Boat pops up easily (I'm 180 lbs) and, since I've been doing this, I never use the bungie anymore.... suppose I could take it off... Although, sometimes 2nd trapper can use it as a restraining line in the big winds

I think its tied down way back there because that makes it longer and that allows it to stretch more, so you can pull out enough slack to pull it over the top of the hull that's up in the air. That way you have a ton of extra leverage.

Thanks for the replies fellas. I'm off to the Fla panhandle tommorrow. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try out the new righting line. Hopefully I won't see a maneater off the stern. Since I'm rigging Hawaiian style, with a bungee run through blocks, I should be able to get plenty of line without going all the way to the rudder. Seems if it's all under the tramp it's more out of the way until you need it.

I'm curious about the righting bag/pulley system. Most comments I've heard about righting bags have been discouraging. Is yours bigger and heavier than the bag you see in the Hobie catalog? How is the pulley attached? How do you use it? Is this better than the Solo-Right style pole systems?

My H16 came with small rack attached to front cross bar - seemingly to hold a six-pack or whatever. I have my righting bag rolled up with about 6 ft of line attached to the middle of the dolphin striker. Also, I have a 5:1 vang slyle block which is about 3 to 3 1/2 ft long when out to length. To store it, I riveted to eyes to the under surface of the front cross bar and hook the block (one end has short bungie ) to the eyes. Keeps it tight and hangs horizontally under the front crossbar.
When I flip, I unroll the line from around the righting bag and throw the bag up and over the upper hull. It's now hanging down just over the hull. I unhook the 5:1 block, unsnap the bag, snap the 5:1 to the righting line. I lean over and fill the bag and then easily snap it to the lower block of the 5:1 which is now hanging much lower, near the lower hull. By pulling on the block, the bag is raised about 3 to 31/2 feet, almost out of the water. I now stand on the lower hull, grab the upper handles of the bag over my shoulder and lean back in to the bag.
Also, before leaning back with the bag full of water hanging over the upper hull, I swim around and put the mast into the wind as per all the diagrams and suggestions we know about - wind helping it right.
Anyway, when I lean back, the boat comes up. I had the local boat shop make me a bag for $35 to save ordering one from Hobie for over $100. I went online - googled "volume of a cylinder" which led me to great site - you put in diameter and height in cm and the site calculated the volume in liters (=kilograms of water). After playing around, I had them make me a bag holding 150-180 lbs.
With the above system, I get the boat over every time. However, I'm 180 lbs and the bag is JUST heavy enough. I'm getting them to make me one 50 lbs more. With waves and water slopping in/out of the bag I could use a little more weight to make it faster. With the 5:1 block, weight is not a problem.
To challange another myth, I usually sail in big winds solo (15-25 kts) and I LIKE THE BAG in the water immediately after righting. It acts a wind anchor and holds the H16 stable while I'm cleaning up after the dunk, keeps me from blowing around (and over againg). Once all is in order, I pull in the bag, stow the 5:1 and bag. then it's off again. Many people have critized the bang in the water as a big problem but it really helps stabilize the situation in the big wind/waves.
Hope this helps. If you want, I can post some photos of this if anyone wants. Cheers.
Looking for big south wind Lake Champlain this Tuesday!!!

PS For those of you who haven't rigged the criss-crossing bungies under your tramp for your trap lines, this is a must. No pulling on the aft trap when you have your aft foot on the rudder casting during a screaming reach. You have complete unrestricked movement when traped and no more replacing your trap bungies everytime you go sailing over the forestay. I rigged this myself easily to save the $$ ordering it from Hobie. If anyone wants to know how, lemme know. Cheers again

HOw do you mean crossed bungies? Can you explain the benefit? Is is just that the longer X pattern allows more play out on the trapeze before the bungie gets tight?

Thanks

Right; that's what he means. Basically the (port) front trap wire bungee goes across the boat and through a pulley and back to another pulley on the (port) side, then over to the rear trap wire on the (starboard) side. And then you mirror-image that. Gives you lots more bungee to stretch out so it's less likely to break if you pitchpole.