Boat Re-Spray Options

Hi all,

I'm a few weeks away from being ready to re-spray #1769. She will soon have new livery and a new name!
My big question is, what type of paint is the best option???
So far I've heard everything from automotive enamel right through to the 2-pack polys and other expensive options. I'm not averse to spending to get the right result (good finish,durability, flexibility etc) but what have folks out there used?

The current drab grey paintjob is flaking and peeling and cannot stay!

All suggestions helpful...

Hi hack,
I painted my last boat in two pack paint, i used two types. On the deck i used two pack marine,which did not allow for any flex and movement in the timber. The two pack polyutherane (black ) which i used on the underside, appeared to buff up much nicer in the end result. It was also cheaper than the marine grade product and you got more in the tin. Try a bristols paint shop. Just be wary that painting in winter can really present its own difficulties, so you will need to find some way of heating up the boat after it has been painted.. But two pack is defiantly the way to go if you have the $$$ and equipment to do so.
Cheers
Harry

I just used protec duratec 600 on my boat, its a polyurethane enamel. Doesn't like the cold, dodgy compressors and has to be shot perfectly. Rubbing out orange peel is not an option. Adhesion and flexibility are the best I have used and its the most wear resistant paint have come across. Costs about $65 litre with hardener.
I wouldn't recommend it for home use but if you get a spray painter with a booth to spray it I doubt there is a better paint out there.
Darryn,
Bullet1782

Preheating works better, the boat will hold most of the heat whilst the paint is applied so flash-off is quicker, a shorter flash-off deminishes the risk of dust etc contaminating the fresh paint, re-fire the heat once the paint has tacked off.

A few tips if your doing this at home ;

Jet-fire heaters:
awesome heat source but they have a drawback, they stir up the dust in your shed which then falls onto your paint
solution pre-heat the boat / allow a short period to let the air become still / spray / wait for tack-off and then re-heat

radiant heaters:
another excellent heater but they usually don't heat large areas that well, fine for a car door for example but useless for the entire side of the car, so a 16foot hull will be unevenly heated resulting in patchy paint.


DUST
simple solution really..... hang a large plastic sheet over your work area and wet the floor down with water before spraying, also pays to wipe down air-lines etc, and your clothing needs to be clean and dust free too...... don't forget the hair-net


when I set up my "booth" I have 3 wires across the shed which form a 'tent' over my work when the plastic sheet is slid over them, I usually pre-heat first and wet the floor at the same time, once I have the heat in my work I shut down the heater and then draw the sheet over my work, then spray ..... once it tacks-off I re-dampen the floor & run the heater again


Dust and airborne particles are your biggest killer, preparation work to minimise this is just as important as the prep work on the boat itself.


Kingy

when have a jet heater it is good, but when spraying need the extraction fan on (bunnungs) and draw the air out and no dust or overspray. Over the years my old man, sprays the boats in 2 pac expoxy, and in the winter it is hard to get a good finish as it will tend to run. so heat the inside of hulls too. More thinner coats equals shiny off gun finish.

I've used Dulux products, primer is Luxepoxy 4 White Primer and the topcoat is Luxeathane, its coming up to 5 years on my boat and still a great finish and I would not hesitate using it again.

If you can find a Dulux Trade Centre nearby its much cheaper than other outlets, as it would special order for most places outside of Dulux.

Both are 2 pak paints, and I'm far from from being a spraypainter, but it came up pretty good.

And Marine paint is the same as industrial paints, you just pay more for marine

Thanks for all the info provided guys!

I do have access to a mates spraybooth and I was intending to wait for some warmer temps before attempting the job. I've had some info that 'Norglass' two pack is as good as anything on the market and much cheaper than brands like International.
I'll look into the heating options though-hadn't heard that before.

cheers

I brushed the Norglass product onto 1655 and the results were ok but obviously brushed. In regard to heating things up, I found that keeping the paint in the warm part of my house overnight before painting produced better results than leaving it in the cold shed.

Cheers. At this stage I think I'll go with Norglass, preheated and sprayed...

Thanks for all the input.

I made a tent in my shed out of the orange plastic builders use to stop moisture travelling through slabs, put an oil heater in it and left it going. Sprayed 2 mozzys in june no problem

A big bonus is the plastic contains the overspray so you don't have to empty the shed

A few mates over recent years have used these for car resprays, absolutely ideal .......

they seal out the weather really well, let in lots of light, no dust, & set it up anywhere !!!!

tent


buy one outright....


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GAZE...DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5895cb69c4

or hire one......

http://compare.ebay.com.au/like/221...i=y&lpid=45&item_id=221260158358

NB:
if you hire one they'll want a 'bond' for damage, none of my mates have asked for the bond back....