Water in Mast

I have the slushing sound in my Blade's mast. I believe that the mast must be plugged above the bolt used for the top of the internal downhaul. Therefore I intend to drill a 3/16 hole into the luff track and hope to achieve drainage. Any ideas on how high above the bolt I would need to drill? My intent is to plug the hole with a pop rivet afterwards. ( I have just now realized that the nose for the rivet gun may not fit into the luff track).

Next of course is to find the leak. When I assembled the mast 3M 5200 was a new thing to me. I was surprised at how long it stayed runny. I am sure that I need to address the diamond wires. Beyond that, I am aware of the float the mast and look for bubbles thing.

So, where to drill?

BTW, I am off on a road trip and may be afkb for a week. Excuse my non-responsiveness to any queries.

Why drill?

Why not instead just poke the top plug drain it out and then reseal? Cheap, fast and very easy.

I would be extremely hesitant to drill unnecesary holes in the mast, specially just for water.

Bob,
Before bothering to empty the water out I'd try to find out how it got in.
Just hold the mast under water and see where the bubbles are coming from.
Once I knew that I'd select the better option to get it out. eg- As Robi said-
If it is coming in the top plug you could empty when you take plug out to reseal etc.

Regards,
Phill

Just a wild guess.

The water is coming into the mast through the T-terminals slots just below the hound fitting. Very early on it was recognized that these slots could never be made fully watertight and that a better (cheaper and quicker) alternative was to just pop rivet SS endplates to the mast (these CAN be made watertight). Of course some people just knew better.

From experience I know for certain that when the boat capsizes that the diamond wire end fittings WILL go below the watersurface. Not for all time but definately long enough to let water in. Most likely situation in this is when you are still hooked on after the capsize or when standing on the boom to free your leg of something. The boat will not turtle because of this but it will put the diamond wire end fittings under.

My mainbeam was made from a old Taipan mast section and the amound of sealant around a T-terminal opening suggested that this issue was already discovered on the Taipans well before the F16's were build in larger numbers. At least I knew this when I builded up my mast several years ago, so others must have known as well.

Wouter

Bobcat,

I've faced this same issue after long capsizes. I use an awl or flat head screwdriver to poke a hole between the mast wall and the plug and push the plug back as the water drains out (lay the mast so the base is up higher). Then I just put a dab of silicone sealant in the hole I made and that's it.