mainsheet

What ratio do you use? If it's greater than stock, what is your rational?

My Stealth has 7 to 1, which I think is stock, and I'm very happy with it. It runs free quickly, is plenty of power for sheeting in, and no miles of line on deck. The HT with 9 to 1, and the 22, with 12 to 1 have much more line to deal with, both to keep on the tramp, and the multiple pulls to sheet back in when playing the main.

Dave

9:1 Ronstan Orbit blocks

New Vipers are coming with a Harken 10:1. I don't think the Harken is the best in this application, and I think 10:1 is too much line. I'd like to run a 8:1, but I'm too wimpy.

Have you ever had a problem UNDER sheeting?

Why in the hell do you need a 10:1 on an F16?

I have a tendency to sheet too much with a 9:1 and I've debated in going to an 8:1 to help prevent it.

I'm not bashing you Karl, you just happened to post this, I'm actually saying this to the forum as a whole.

My setup is a 9:1 with a taper, and the taper makes all the difference in the world! I've ran it without and it SUCKS! period.

Mike

"Sheet too much" I thought that was almost impossible.

I have 7:1on my viper. I thought it was 8 but a loop was dropped out of it when i picked up the boat from AHPC. Im too lazy to fix it. But i have got used to it. You dont have to pull in as much sheet if you have to dump it at the top or bottom mark. Also i find that its easy to over sheet the main in light air and slightly less purchase helps to prevent this.

I definetly dont think you need 10:1. But maybe it would be the go when we all get too old to deal with the big air.

Fatigue is your enemy. Many of us still have to work our own mains and I've even moved the cleat up so I can't cleat it from the wire (keeps me from getting lazy) so at the end of the day I'm still looking for extra purchase and I have 10:1 on my F18. Good news is I'm sailing more and more with crew that expects to get the main which is soooooo nice! Maybe I'll drop it to 8:1 cause all that sheet in my space is annoying. :-)

ratio is determined by simply counting the number of sheaves, yes? Assuming they're all the same diameter.

Block diameter doesn't matter for the ratio. On non/cascading systems simply count the lines between the upper and lower assembly (e.g. 7 lines in between = 7:1)
Block diameter is important for friction.

Power is just one element in the equation. Low ratio is may be too coarse to adjust the main. High ratio is may be too slow.

What ratio are you using? You sail 18 HT correct?

No I sail a Javelin 16, it is F16 size. I use 7:1. Never thought about the ratio, but many time about this shitty blocks from a big company with H.

I use those same "H" blocks. Every few months I throw the whole mess, lines and all, into a tub of fresh water for a day or two. They come out feeling like new.

Bingo.

For me I think the 10:1 is actually more of a fatigue inducer on an F16. Sheeting is easy, but you're working such a large quantity of line that it wears you out. For me the 9:1 is a nice balance.

If I had the strength I'd be running an 8:1, but I'm working the piss outta the mainsheet going upwind. Its not so much that you can over sheet the main, as in too much tension, but how efficiently you can work it in the range you need to. Like Dave, I don't cleat when I'm on the wire to keep myself from getting lazy.




I built a tapered main sheet when I bought my last boat, with the Ronstan blocks I honestly couldn't tell if it made any difference in ease of sheeting. I love those blocks.

How much line do you need for 9:1? I suppose that if I wanted 8:1 the proper length would be mid way between 7:1 and 9:1?

I definately like the 9:1, both for skipper or crew.
Lengths: total: 12.20m (incl. split tail), 3.6m taper for Harken 9:1.

Gill

Thanks Gill.

Karl, have the orbit blks held up for you? I had a less than satisfactory experience with them once, and have never tried them again.

Dave

Haven't had any issues yet.