Had an issue on the Infusion last week with the rotating Harken swivel base (similar to this, http://www.catsailor.com/store/pc/Cleat-Bases-182p32911.htm, don't have exact harken p/n on hand). Basically the tail of the halyard got caught in the mast rotator and popped the halyard out of the cleat. Not much I can change on that end, the halyard is running smooth.

Has anyone switched to a spinlock on the halyard? Anyone else experience this relatively minor issue?

Got a spinlock on the club Tiger and the Harken on the C2.
In my eyes, the spinlock looks like the better idea in theory, but disappoints in reality. Seems like its either always slipping or not 100% engaged, or who knows. Likely user error (dam crew) but it should be more fool proof.

Never ran into your issue. Did you have adequate tension on the halyard takeup? Might run the tail of the halyard through an eye further outboard on the beam? Just ideas

Thanks for the info, we'll stick with the Harken for now. Others have lodged similar complaints on the spinlocks in the past, might be a dud spinlock...

Our halyard takeup goes slack when the chute is up per Microwind racing's guide. This prevents a giant crease from running down the sail in all but super light air conditions. What happened in this case was the mast rotator got between the front beam and the halyard before it goes to the turning block on the tramp, if I recall correctly. Definitely an unusual situation, I'll take a closer look at rigging options, I prefer less blocks not more. As the dam crew, it was clearly all my fault, the third time was the charm.

I like a Harken cleat, mounted to the Ronstan swivel. The Harken swivel will bend allowing the jaws of the cleat to open up and allows the halyard to slip or release. The Ronstan cleat is garbage, there's no metal wear strip to keep the halyard from digging into the cleat at the bottom of the jaws. The mix and match of parts has been working very reliably for me on the last four Vipers I've had.


(edit)- I use a Spinlock on the tack line. They have an excessive failure rate, and I usually keep a spare or two on hand. Some last longer than others. Just for the way my tack line is setup, its the best solution. I'm not sure I'd want one on the halyard. Seems to me they would be too easily released if it were exposed.

Sam run a shockcord from the end of the rotator to the boom. That will fix your problem.
Spinlocks do fail and with no warning. Plus the halyard wouldn't be able to run straight down causing more friction.
Ronstan body breaks over time or the pin can fall out. Never had a problem with the harken but putting a bolt through it helps.

Thanks Todd for that suggestion, I'll take a look.

Last night it slipped because the block rotated far enough aft that the cleat got stuck in the diamond wires. That I bet is rare and am fully blaming the crew, he was new to sailing in general and new to the boat. Smiling from ear to ear after getting off the trapeze.

Put a bit of shock cord on the forward Side of the cleat and run it around thefront of mast to the port diamond. Not too tight but just tight enough to keep it from getting stuck in the starboard diamond wire

or you could move the cleat up or down one inch (use one of the existing holes) so that the diamond becomes either to close to let this happen or too far away for it to be a problem.

Shockcord was cheaper and easier than drilling another hole in the mast, appears to be working well so far. Has the added bonus of pulling the cleat round the mast so it's easily accessible on port tack and still easily accessible on starboard.

Spinnaker cleat could probably go up one hole length and position be OK but the factory position is an average location that works well for most crews.

The halyard will slip through the Harken cleat (big and small model) sooner or later. The Ronstan cleat will hold the line for sure. As the jaws are upside down there is no issue in digging into the cleat. The only issue is that the plastic guide might wear over time. Anyway I prefer to have the spin stay up at all times.

If you really want to use the harken cleat you can buy a new swiftcord halyard and splice a piece of rope where the rope should go in the cleat. This makes a 5 or 6mm at that part making the cleat grip better.

Gill

Gill you might want to check the other thread. I trust a Ronstan cleat no more than the Harken. Personally the Ronstan head banger looks like a pile of molten plastic someone hit "send" on their 3D printer with. Something about an aluminum bracket gives me piece of mine when I'm sending it down the mine at 25 kts. Shrimped kites are expensive.