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#57179 - 09/14/05 11:09 PM Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks  
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 493
Jeff Peterson Offline
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Jeff Peterson  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 493
Minnesota
I have a 1977 H-16 that long, long, ago had the plastic pulleys get oxidized and break off, from the jib halyard block and the block attached to the mast. I've never replaced them, instead I just run the rope over the steel spindles. I've never seen anyone else actually replace the plastic pulleys. It seems to work just as well, without the pulleys.

Has ANYONE replaced their broken pulleys ?

Can ANYONE justify to me that the SHOULD be replaced ?



Jeff Peterson
H-16 Sail #23721
Big Marine Lake, MN
-- Have You Seen This? --
#57180 - 09/15/05 09:04 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Jeff Peterson]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 306
hobienick Offline
enthusiast
hobienick  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 306
St. Louis, MO
I sailed for 5 years on My H16 without replacing them. I didn't know until after I had the boat for 2 year that a block was even supposed to be there.


Nick

Current Boat
Looking for one

Previous Boats
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
'74 Pearson 30
St. Louis, MO
#57181 - 09/15/05 11:43 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: hobienick]  
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,252
mmiller Offline
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mmiller  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,252
California
It will still work. Just harder to sheet and will wear out the sheets.


Hobie Cat Forums
Matt Miller
Hobie Cat Company
#57182 - 09/16/05 08:54 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: mmiller]  
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 974
Clayton Offline
old hand
Clayton  Offline
old hand

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 974
South Louisiana, USA
Matt,

Can you change those? I have an '81 H16 that my son is reworking that has the same problem. Is there a fix or do you need to replace?

Clayton

#57183 - 09/16/05 09:45 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Clayton]  
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,252
mmiller Offline
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mmiller  Offline
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California
The cars are rivited together typically. It may be possible to drill out one of the pins and replace a sheave and pin with a clevis. I don't have specs on how and what to use though.

The car replacements vary depending on the style. Cleat on the car or not.


Hobie Cat Forums
Matt Miller
Hobie Cat Company
#57184 - 09/16/05 06:22 PM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: mmiller]  
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 29
Bill K. Offline
newbie
Bill K.  Offline
newbie

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 29
Banner Elk, NC
Yes, same situation. Is there not a sheave or plastic pulley that can be attached to the steel spindles without dismantling and/or replacing the whole thing? Perhaps some sort of snap together piece? Would be a great idea if it were physically possible given the stresses involved.


83' Hobie 16
#57185 - 09/19/05 07:31 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Bill K.]  
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 152
yoh Offline
member
yoh  Offline
member

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 152
Central Texas
Jeff... If I understand this correctly, you are talking about the cheek block rivet to the mast, utilized as a downhaul purchase.
You cannot replace only the plastic wheel. But the cheek block is sold for about $20.00.

Patrick


Patrick, Hobie 16 '85
#57186 - 09/19/05 11:40 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: yoh]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Nate Offline
stranger
Nate  Offline
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
I replaced mine just this summer. I purchased new sheaves from Schaefer with 5/16" bores(I'll find the part number if you're interested), and drilled out the rivet in the old block. (The rivets seem to be pretty hard, use a lot of oil.) Then, I bored out one side of the rivet hole in the bracket to accept a 5/16 dia. stainless shoulder bolt (1/4-20 thrd on the end). I left the hole in the other side of the bracket small as clearance for a 1/4 thread. I fed the shoulder bolt thru the 5/16 clearance hole, thru the sheave, and let the 1/4-20 end of the shoulder bolt protrude thru the opposite bracket. Then I put a jam nut on the shoulder screw, locking it to the one side of the bracket. Then you can trim off the head of the shoulder bolt. I did it this way instead of just putting and pin and cotter keys in it so that I knew the sheave was spinning on the shoulder bolt and the shoulder bolt wasn't spinning relative to the bracket. I sailed it hard in Florida all last week and it works great so far. I'll post a pic later.

#57187 - 09/19/05 08:04 PM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Nate]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 306
hobienick Offline
enthusiast
hobienick  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 306
St. Louis, MO
Everyone is going through an awful lot of trouble to replace a pulley that isn't critical to the functionality of the boat. For about $20 (as I read earlier) you can have to proper part and just replace the whole cheek block. Surely there are more important things to spend you time and money on for your boat?


Nick

Current Boat
Looking for one

Previous Boats
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
'74 Pearson 30
St. Louis, MO
#57188 - 09/20/05 06:55 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: hobienick]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Nate Offline
stranger
Nate  Offline
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
I was talking about the jib cars. Mine have the spring loaded cleats, and cost a little more than $20.00 Anyway, I just like working on the boat. As to whether or not the jib car sheave is necessary for proper operation, it probably isn't, but the sheet does feed much smoother with a good sheave in place.

#57189 - 09/20/05 08:58 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Nate]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Nate Offline
stranger
Nate  Offline
stranger

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Here's a couple pics. This is before I cut off the head and excess shank of the screws. Not pretty, but, except for the sheaves I repaired it with what I had laying around in the garage. If you could see the rest of my boat you'd know that I'm interested in seaworthiness and cost effectiveness as opposed to beauty. (Pretty costs too much) The sheaves were $3.50 each. I recall now that I couldn't drill out the rivet with a HSS bit (smoked the bit) so I had to grind off the rivet head and drive out the rivet.

Attached Files
57901-CAM_1390.JPG (641 downloads)
#57190 - 09/20/05 08:59 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Nate]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Nate Offline
stranger
Nate  Offline
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Another

Attached Files
57902-CAM_1391.JPG (241 downloads)
#57191 - 09/20/05 02:05 PM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Nate]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 306
hobienick Offline
enthusiast
hobienick  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 306
St. Louis, MO
Sorry about that, from your original post I thought you were talking about the jib halyard block and the cheeck block on the mast.


Nick

Current Boat
Looking for one

Previous Boats
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
'74 Pearson 30
St. Louis, MO
#57192 - 09/20/05 11:08 PM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: hobienick]  
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 493
Jeff Peterson Offline
addict
Jeff Peterson  Offline
addict

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 493
Minnesota
That WAS what I was talking about...not the cars.

I think Matt had the best response, about wearing out the jib halyard rope. It is tought on them, but I'd rather replace the rope, than fool with my water-tight mast. Other than that problem, the slight gain in ease of tightening the halyard doesn't seem to be worth the trouble.


Jeff Peterson
H-16 Sail #23721
Big Marine Lake, MN
#57193 - 09/21/05 07:22 AM Re: Old Hobies and their Jib Blocks [Re: Jeff Peterson]  
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Nate Offline
stranger
Nate  Offline
stranger

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
Sorry, I saw Matt talking about 'sheets' so I assumed we were talking jib cars.


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