Seems like I saw this discussed before but I can't find it. Has anyone figured out how to raise the Blade mast single-handed? Due to the wing shape and the design of mast step the Blade mast must be raised with the luff groove up/forward then rotated 180 degrees aft after it is on the pin. That really complicates the process of stepping the mast alone. How do I get purchase to help me raise the mast and keep it in line (fore to aft while doing it)? I tried using the main halyard led forward to a turning block on tip of the trailer mast support and attached a 4 part tackle running back to the traveler car. The 1/4" halyard stretches too much. Maybe if I swap out the halyard line with Spectra? Got to solve this problem so I can go rig/sail boat without help. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> John, Blade, Sail #720
John, Can you raise the mast from the front of the boat? If so, I've got a slick system than should work. It avoids the problem of holding up a nearly unsupported mast and having to rotate it 180 degrees; and, it can be done alone quite easily. The only drawback is that you can't do it with the boat on the trailer. Since I launch off my skinny beach wheels, I don't mind at all. Let me give you the quick version:
1. Take boat off trailer and position it next to the trailer with bows no further forward than the trailer wheels on beach wheels/foam supports 2. lay mast so top is resting in the front trailer support and bottom goes diagnally down to the mast step; pin in place 3. hook up one side stay (on side nearest trailer), forstay/bridles, and run the spin halyard; then, run your spinnaker sheet through the block on the side furthest from the trailer and tie it to the side stay to be connected on that side 4. grab or position the spin sheet where it will be easy to grab; working from the front, hoist the mast--you'll have to step over the bow as you raise it diagonally 5. once the mast is fully raised, it should be connected by the forstay/bridles and the sidestay nearest the trailer; at this point, pull the spinnaker sheet tight; that will tighten the unattached sidestay (or trap line could also be used) 6. hold the spin sheet taught and walk around the side of the boat and fasten the second sidestay 7. mast lowering is exactly reverse and very easy since the spin block--if run the right direction--is used to ease the mast down gently
Hopefully this doesn't sound more complicated than it really is. Paul K. and I both use this approach and it is very easy. In fact, whenever someone offers to help either of us we usually just say no thanks--just too easy to do solo. Safe, too as the mast is connected in 4 spots the whole time.
I've got an even easier 1 step system.......Don't be affraid to ask anybody near by to help. It's often better if they are female when you ask for help errecting your mast. Good taste in this respect will pay dividends and will also prevent you from being arrested. Double checking that they aren't accompained by a 'partner' is also useful. If you're still convinced on doing it single handed then the use of shackles, chains, ropes and even trailers is fine by me. (Firday night humour I hope) Seriously: I prefer the asking for help rather than crunching a mast or hurting myself.
The blade mast is not very heavy and quite easy to step. I step mine solo all the time.
Here is my process: 1. Leave boat strapped to the trailer 2. Lay out all wires, make sure none of them are a tangle issue. 3. Run the spinaker halyard through the mast support on the trailer. 4. Then run the spinaker halyard through the jib cleats on the front crossbar. 5. Put mast into stepping pin connection. 6. Get on tramp and raise the mast. 7. Pull slack off the spin halyard and tighten.
This will have the mast leaning enough distance foward, so you can get off the tramp and instal the forestay.
8. Install forestay 9. uncleat spin halyard and remove it from the cleat, and trailer mast support. 10. Tighten down the sidestays 11. Rig the boat in its entirely 12. Go sailing and have fun.
Agree with Robi ... I've never stepped with help. (although I will begin looking around for *help* <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> per MarkP's suggestion )
I find it best to first start with mast in horizontal position as if just lowered (without rotation). Rig standing rigging (traps, side stays and spin halyard). Be sure everything will be clear. I've installed a stainless eye hook on the trailer mast stand. I run my spi' halyard thru this and back thru the jib blocks. The other end of the spi' halyard I run thru the mast spreaders and tie to the base of the mast (mast rotator). Be sure these two ends are secure as this will support the mast once raised.
rotate mast 180 (so that sail track is up). Install pin at base. (Note: I've got a mast stand I use behind my trailer made from PVC. Effectively a tripod--I'll attach a photo next time I'm at my boat--this helps keep the mast from "levering" off the rear beam).
Once raised I tigten the spi' halyard that was run thru the jib block. Follow Robi's instructions from there...
Reverse for lowering mast.
NOTE: be sure to keep the mast at 180 degrees all the way up (or all the way down)....If you allow the mast to twist before fully erect you'll bend the stainless fittings at the base of the mast (and front cross beam) and need to get them straigtened (pain in the A**) or replace them).
Thanks for the quick response guys. I'll go back over all the suggestions tomorrow and see if I can get it done without destroying myself in the process. The raising from front quarter sounds interesting but probably don't want to try that for first time on my cement driveway. I'll wait to try that on sand.
After I got some help raising the mast for first time today I discovered that the side stays seem way too short and the forestay too long. I got the optional Sta/Master adjusters for the side stays and I think someone made a miscalculation when cutting/assembling the wires. With all the adjustment let out of the Sta/Masters, my main halyard, hanging free, would touch the tramp a full 36" behind the base of the mast. That seems like an awful lot of rake to me. I'm already down to the 8th of 10 adjustments on the forestay and even honking down the forestay to the bottom isn't going to get my mast vertical or even close. I'd think that that with the side stays slackened to the limits the mast should be able to be raked forward. Anybody know what the length of these fore and side stays are supposed to be? John
The raising from front quarter sounds interesting but probably don't want to try that for first time on my cement driveway. I'll wait to try that on sand.
It's really simple, John; never dropped anything on the pavement yet.
Eric Poulsen A-class USA 203 Ultimate 20 Central California
I think that raising from the front may be tricky due to the self-tacker, but I've never tried.
I've never had to raise the mast on my own, but I have taken it down solo with no problem. The only bit I use help for when raising it is having someone hold a trapeze wire to keep it up once I've raised it.
If you tie the spin halyard to the bridle wire and then cleat it at the base (I think I used a jib cleat) it'll hold the mast up fine while you attach/detach the forestay. I always put the trailer behind the boat and rest the mast on the prop while I sort out the rigging. Starting from here, it's pretty easy to lift it whilst standing on the tramp.
After I got some help raising the mast for first time today I discovered that the side stays seem way too short and the forestay too long. I got the optional Sta/Master adjusters for the side stays and I think someone made a miscalculation when cutting/assembling the wires. With all the adjustment let out of the Sta/Masters, my main halyard, hanging free, would touch the tramp a full 36" behind the base of the mast. That seems like an awful lot of rake to me. I'm already down to the 8th of 10 adjustments on the forestay and even honking down the forestay to the bottom isn't going to get my mast vertical or even close. I'd think that that with the side stays slackened to the limits the mast should be able to be raked forward. Anybody know what the length of these fore and side stays are supposed to be? John
I went through the same thing. Some of it is discussed in this thread Measuring Mast Rake There is a picture of my boat rigged there. I don't have much around to really compare my speed against, but I can tell you that with this rake I'm not overwhelmed with weather helm. I think that I am using the second from bottom hole at the moment. Sailing uni-rigged I am not using a lot of sidestay tension.
John- I have a Taipan but the mast/hinge is the same and I have my trailer rigged to raise from the front by myself. IMO much easier than raising from the rear with our mast hinge systems (since if you raise from the front you don't have to rotate the mast). Here's the key "points" (believe me, all learned from trial and error and trying multiple techniques). I also developed this system prior to having a spi on my boat and I don't use no stinking main halyard either so you don't have to rely on any halyards. You can modify this technique if you do have a halyard so you don't need the mainsheet. Points- Have your front maststand far enough forward from the front beam that with the mast hinge hooked up the spreader will be behind the maststand cradle. Have your cradle "smooth" so the diamonds will not hang on it when raising/lowering. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Have your front maststand "extendable" if possible- gives you a "head start" when lifting if by hand and enough angle the mainsheet can lift if desired. Mine extends about 3'. This also allows "finetuning" the trailerable height if, like me, you tow with different vehicles. Make up two small lines that extend from your trap line wires to the ends of the front beam (these keep the mast centered and prevent falling off to the side since you cannot attach the side shrouds until raised when raising from the front in the middle). I drilled a 1/4" hole in the end of my beams on the top and use SS snap hooks to attach. I added a "plate" extending off my front beam support just to the side of the mast with a hole I clip my mainsheet blocks into and a plate at the rear mast support that holds a single block with becket. This block has a line ended on it that then runs through a single block that clips to the top block of my mainsheet. This line then runs through the single block with becket and ends in a loop with two SS snap hooks. These attach to the rear shrouds. With the mainsheet fully extended it almost reaches to the rear beam so the line from the rear blocks just reaches the rear shrouds on the mast. It's necessary to have this "2-1" reduction so you don't end up "block-to-block" on the mainsheet before the mast gets upright. Okay- so now to go through the process- Pull up to your launch site and make sure there are no overhead wires/branches/etc. in front of you or between you and the water. Undo the front mast strap, hook up the shrouds/trap lines/halyard(s - if removed), lay out trap and shrouds, hook up mainsheet to the front plate, move to rear of boat, unstrap mast, hook up rear blocks to plate and top mainsheet block, push mast forward on tramp, with end laying on tramp in front of rear beam. Extend front mast support (can alternatively extend once you have it hooked up to hinge). Now just pull mast forward (with the support far enough forward you can do this without having to lift the spreaders over the support- also, with this setup the mast ends up fairly well balanced although it does want to "tip up" a bit when it's all the way forward. Now hook up the side line extensions from the traps to the front beams, hook up the rear shrouds to the rear line. Now move to the top of the trailer just forward to the front beam. I hold the mainsheet in one hand and the mast in the other and as I pull on the mainsheet I lift the mast with my other hand. When the mast gets all the way up I just cleat the mainsheet. Then go unclip one of the side shrouds, and connect, then do the either side, remove trap extensions, mainsheet and rear mast support (leave the blocks on for taking down which is a reverse of the above). If you have help all you need to do is connect the trap extensions, raise the mast by hand and hold while helper connects shrouds. The extensions double for checking mast rake once the mast is up. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> This method is safe and I have raised/dropped the mast by myself in all types of conditions- rainy/windy/gusty under control. I will attach a photo with the mast hooked up ready to be raised.
It worked finally!! And from this photo you can see most of the aspects described above- the extended maststand with spreaders just behind, extensions on the trap lines, etc.
Looks like another good setup. This forum is great! Thanks guys for all the good ideas. John <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> And thanks to Robi for the signature graphic!
It is going well with the class. Stealth Marine had reported new sales a short while ago and VWM has now delivered over 20 boats now in just 20 months and I know that quite a few are on order. And this still excludes the 11 boats that need to be made for the Alter Cup event that is to be held in 6 months.
So I think it is fair to say that in feb 2007, just 2 years and 2 month after the VWM launching of the Blade F16, over 35 Blades will have been build and delivered. That is quite a good series for a completely new design in its first few years.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I think the Stealths are passed 45 now.
And then of course we have some 10 homebuild build to add to that and about 60 converted Taipans. And lets not forget some 20 mosquito's.
At this time probably only the prototype of Capricorn F16 exists but those sales will increase when it is officially launched.
In total 155 boats by quick (and conservative) estimate. Going passed 170 before Feb 2007.
That is quite good. It means we were succesful at adding about 30 boats to our class each year of its existance. Again, really not bad for a completely new class without a very big builder behind the scenes pushing the product.
Wouter
Wouter Hijink Formula 16 NED 243 (one-off; homebuild) The Netherlands
... not forgetting the 180 Spitfires that are out there now.
16 footers seem to be a very good proposition for those of us who are too light / old / weak <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> or have no crew for an F18.
... 16 footers seem to be a very good proposition for those of us who are too light / old / weak <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> or have no crew for an F18.
