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#78 - 06/18/01 07:11 AM Traveler screws pulled  
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 32
Serge L. Offline
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Serge L.  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 32
My traveler screws (five on the side) pulled out of the aluminum crossbeam. I initially thought of drilling out the holes in the travelers and crossbeam for the next larger size screw. Someone recommended putting bolts through with the end cap nuts on the bottom of the beam (alternatively regular nuts with nylon washer inserts). What do you think, which method is better.
<br>
<br>Nice forum, Rick.
<br>
<br>Thanks,
<br>S.<br><br>

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#79 - 06/18/01 07:55 AM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: Serge L.]  

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I am considering upgrading my traveler system. Is there any kind of backing mechanism inside the crossbar for the screws -- metal plate, washer and nut, etc.? Or are the screws threaded into the crossbar and that provides enough strength? I need to know how difficult this project is before I get into it.
<br>
<br>Thanks for the help.
<br>
<br>Ben<br><br>

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#80 - 06/18/01 07:58 AM Re: Traveler screws pulled  
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Serge L. Offline
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Serge L.  Offline
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My crossbeam is all aluminum, with no inserts, the screws go right in it.
<br>
<br>S.<br><br>

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#81 - 06/18/01 04:01 PM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: Serge L.]  
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Serge,
<br>You've heard the term "patience is a virtue" well my solution would require some of this.
<br>The rear beams I've built up in the past that consisted of a seperate "I" beam on the aluminium rear beam were all bolted.
<br>The bolt goes through the "I" beam and top surface of aluminium rear beam and a washer and Nylock nuts goes on the bolt inside the beam. You get the nut and washer in position by taping a spanner to a batten. Put a bit of packing tape around the nut before putting it in the spanner and the extra thickness holds the nut in place. Use Duralac to make the washer stick to the nut and prevent a reaction of dissimilar metals between the Aluminium and stainless. Start from the centre of the beam and work your way out each side.
<br>
<br>Get a frriend and a couple of beers and take your time and you'll never have to touch it again.
<br>
<br>Hope this helps.
<br>Phill<br><br>

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I know that the voices in my head aint real,
but they have some pretty good ideas.
There is no such thing as a quick fix and I've never had free lunch!

#82 - 06/18/01 09:15 PM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: phill]  

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Phill, the old NACRAs I had with screwed on traveler track all had holes in other side of aluminum beam so you could fit a nut driver through the beam to hold the nuts for mounting traveler bar to top side. That way you didn't have to guess where the nut was with this batten idea of yours. I guess the loss of strength in a beam due to some small diameter holes in it is worth the ease of assmebly?<br><br>

#83 - 06/18/01 09:17 PM Re: Traveler screws pulled  

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don't use screws, use bolts. Nuts inside beam with washer is OK. No need to go to other side of beam with bolt, just drill hole in other side of beam large enough to fit nut driver through (see post below) My old NACRAs all had this, before they went to an integrated traveler track.<br>Jim Casto<br>N5.5 uni #456<br>Austin, TX<br><br>

#84 - 06/18/01 09:55 PM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: Serge L.]  
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basket.case Offline
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what i did on my boat was to use machine screws and 'loc-tight'. if you are using a #10 screw, drill it out the next size DOWN, thread the screw in (the beam is so thin that you do not need to tap it). then take it out, add loc tight and tighten the screw back down. <br><br>

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#85 - 06/19/01 06:50 AM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: basket.case]  
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Serge L. Offline
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Serge L.  Offline
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Hey, thanks a lot, guys, I think I will go with the machine screw idea. I don't even need to drill out the holes because with larger screw size I will just force it into the holes that exist. My crossbeam is 16 feet long, so it would be very difficult to use the end of batten idea. And the less I drill it the better I would feel about long time strength.
<br>
<br>Thanks,
<br>S.<br><br>

#86 - 06/19/01 07:25 AM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: Serge L.]  
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sparky Offline
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Serge,
<br> Just a thought... The loads on the rear beam are veritcal and up. Drilling holes in the bottom of that beam shouldn't hurt you. The track on the top of the beam helps some, but the loads get transmitted from the traveller track through the attachments and then to the beam. If you skimp on the track attachments, that is where you will fail (i.e., stripped threads and screws will pull out). I was wondering if the larger screws in the track will still be flush and let the traveller car pass over it easily. In the end, I think the most robust fix is to drill holes in the bottom of the beam to allow you to put the washers and nuts on the track attachment screws.
<br>
<br>Les Gallagher<br><br>Les Gallagher
<br>Inter 17R USA 104
<br>"little yellow boat"

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Les Gallagher
#87 - 06/19/01 03:26 PM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: Serge L.]  
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basket.case Offline
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basket.case  Offline
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toronto, canada
you have to be careful tapping with the screw, you only get one shot at it. i think it is best to drill it. even if it only takes out 1/32 it is worth it.<br><br>

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#88 - 06/19/01 11:23 PM Re: Traveler screws pulled [Re: Serge L.]  
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phill Offline
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Central Coast NSW Australia
Serge,
<br>A 16ft beam.
<br>
<br>Now that just turns what was a pesty job into a challenge.
<br>
<br>(Although I'd probably replace the batten with a length of 3/4" al sqr hollow section with 1/8" wall to even things up a bit.)
<br>
<br>Good luck with the screws.
<br>
<br>Phill<br><br>

Attached Files
109- (30 downloads)

I know that the voices in my head aint real,
but they have some pretty good ideas.
There is no such thing as a quick fix and I've never had free lunch!

#89 - 06/22/01 08:24 AM Re: Traveler screws - Rivnuts Solution [Re: Serge L.]  
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 32
Serge L. Offline
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Serge L.  Offline
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Posts: 32
Check out www.cardinalcomponents.com
<br>
<br>These rivnuts are great but very expensive. They quoted me $13! for each SS rivnut for 3/16" screw thread and 1/8" grip thickness. The aluminum rivnuts of same size are $5 each. Plus $60 for insertion tool.
<br>
<br>Wow!
<br>
<br>S.<br><br>


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