while resin is going off, I decided the orange/red/blue thingy at the bow had to go..... probably very cool back in the day but now ???
definately not my cuppa rum

80grit took care of it and I was able to stay out of the base primer underneath it all largely

NB:
the blue was the hardest to remove, tough stuff that readily clogged the lower grit papers so that's why I started with the 80grit, the orange was also tough but once I touched the primer it cut away very easily, the red was childs play to sand off.... half a dozen swipes and it fell away easily.
The dark green stripe is coming off quite easily aswell, as did the old name






luckily the green carried through under the 'splash of colors' so once I had them off I went straight down to 180grit paper and took off the primer

once the primer was gone and the green fully revealed I changed down to 320grit paper.
although it isn't perfect color-wise the finish is ultra smooth and ready for my touch of bling



The main reason I did this was ....
1/
had a couple of large chips in the leading edges that needed filling

2/
the glass was actually worn right through at the front where its been dragged up on the sand over the years, again in need of filling

3/
it will tie in with what I'm doing for the short-term "repairs" to the main and foredeck (the rear decks will be replaced as they are completely shagged)

now I know I said earlier that I was going to cut / scarf in some new bits ply...... but I decided against that for a couple of reasons.
1/
time restraints: after I'd cut the first bit I figured this was going to take ages and I wanted a simple solid quick fix, simply because I won't know what's going in there until I tear the decks off in the off season.... the rot may be far worse than I know about at the moment

2/
strength issue: scarfing in is the traditional method BUT it lacks some strength, there was also the problem of curving the ply to better suit the hull shape, that meant time being spent of pre-curving the replacement ply aswell as the scarfing.

So I decided to do something an old sailor from way back when taught me at a regatta when my old mozzie was damaged....
a hole from a another mozzie just after the morning race was fixed during lunch and I was back on the water for the afternoon races, although the fresh resin was covered by that trusty old best friend..... gaffa tape


cut a ply plate that's just a bit bigger than the hole

bang a staple right in the middle of the plate then remove the staple

thread a fine wire through the 2 holes left by the staple

coat the ply plate in resin and slip into the hole

slip in a short dowel and twitch the wire around it then twitch the dowel so it pulls the plate up against the hull

with the remaining resin add sawdust till its like play-dough in its consistency

trowel the mix into the 'cavity'

let it set..... sand back .... paint as required or if needed


now I've used this old trick many times over, even Jurassic Karp has a few dabs of this in in, specifically where the old stringer slots were.
Its as light as you want it to be, use balsa-wood / cedar / pine etc.
Want it a bit heavier then use harder woods or as I've found plywood itself saved from the band saw works a treat

the big advantage is the strength, all the fine chips of sawdust are not all spread out but mixed up and tightly compacted. It sets super fast and can be sanded easily, I laid it down on Sunday with 7day resin, it was sanded back Monday night, micro filled on Tuesday night and finished tonight.
The process could have been done far quicker had I used a rapid set resin, the whole job would have been done in less than ~4hours

As it stands now, I have structural strength WITH a ply backing plate, the repair can easily be finished off once the decks are removed ..... flap disk on the 4" grinder, "grind" off the ply backing plate, add resin and cloth.... all done


the dark patches are the sawdust/resin mix





happy with the end result, it smoothed out really well and the microballon filler made it a perfect flush finish

centreboard case's are next on the agenda.....

Hi Kingy,

I'm thinking that the centreboards that came with Twice Shy were not the original ones. Back in them days the old mozzies had wide boards.

Check where the cases are positioned relative to the rules. I'm guessing that they are well forward and probably vertical relative to the deck.

If thats the case then you could angle the boards back by putting fibreglassed wedged foam blocks into the case and angle them according to the rule limits. It's a quick fix and may improve the old girls handling.

The difference in measurements between 1740 and 1182 are huge, and even with the cedar added to 1182's case its still 60mm further forward than 1740's..... measured from the front beam to the front of the board case.

At D.Y.C. today and I had a look at Al's boat 'Scorpion' and he has a block aswell only his has been placed at the back of the slot pushing the boards as far forwards as possible, his slots are even longer than 1182's.... I ended up with just under ~40mm long cedar packer and Al's would have to be nearer to 55mm of packer.

I'd have to agree that the boards themselves are not designed to run with the setup on the boat although the style and length is from that era as I remember it (recall seeing the dual timber boards and thinking how good they looked when I was moving from jnr-snr sailor), as to what happened with 1182's is anyone's guess....
My first mozzie STINGA #245 had a wide long board and the rudders were narrow and long comparison, much like 1182's are. I remember making a new set of blades that were shorter and wider and could be pushed far further forward under the boat than the old ones to get a better turning boat on the tacks, I also remember cutting off a couple of inches from the width and the length was also cut down on those boards once the rudder mods had been proven to work.

the rudders that came with 1182 are the same in their shape and style in that they are also long and not that wide. but as to what / where / & when the changes were made..... ??????????????????????????????

40mmx24mm cedar packer in place....
Jurassic Karp hangin around in the background....



once the boat is flipped back over I'll trim and fill the stub so its flush with the old deck, it will get more work when the decks are replaced in winter.

trimmed.... and filled



the grey tape held the resin filler from running down the case slot and was easy to remove once the resin filler had gone off

had a bit of resin filler left over......

the mounts had compressed the timber somewhat so it needed to be brought back up flush.
mmmmm getting fussy again.... mental note to self .... STOP IT ! and get the boat on the water !!

After some thought and considerations, I decided that even tho Jurassic Karp's boards are ~200mm shorter, I'd only take off 150mm from Twice Shy's boards.
Main reason for this was Jurassics aren't tapered where-as Twice Shy's are, so I calculated out the actual surface area and ended up with a trim of 150mm being required.



these will be an easy re-shaping of the cut
the tough bit will be the slight slimming of the boards, just a tad tight to slide up n down in the cases....


27/525

i wouldnt be measuring from the front beam to the cases unless you have measured that the beams are in the same place as all the measurments for the beams and board cases are taken from the bow of the boat.

I've re-checked the measurements against the plans I have that came with Jurassic Karp, the measurements for everything else are within a couple of millimetres of the specs and compare well with Karp, its only the cases that aren't at the specs.

~100mm further forward than they should be even tho they are the wide case slots.
With the ~40mm packer I'm still forward of where it should be by about 60mm.

filler blocked back

When I first noticed the case lengths compared to the board widths I tried to fit the actual boards and ran smack into trouble.....
The boards wouldn't even start to go in to the case, the thickness of the board was way past the width of the case and now that I'd cut the boards length back and the packer fitted to the case it was time to find where the interference was coming from..... hope it's just a wayward dribble of resin or something simple...

I wasn't that lucky

The cuts were first up and the bottom of the boards are now re-shaped ....... took me all of half an hour to get them into the desired shape.
Now the case slot, a visual inspection showed virtually no resin dribbles but I gave it a light sand regardless, which made no difference at all


My attention turned to the boards themselves, and it wasn't until I noticed some flaking varnish at the top that I realised what had been done to stop the fit......
A layer of varnish has been sprayed onto the boards and that layer was THICK..... ~1.5mm thick in some spots

I wasn't game to apply paint stripper incase the varnish had made it onto bare timber via a chip or cut, and I wasn't sure about the glassed surfaces reaction to the stripper either.
Next idea was to use the belt sander to rip it off, but I only had 80grit paper and I wasn't keen on the idea of cutting through the glass....

option c =

3 hours of hand sanding just to do 1 board



The board on the right has been heavily sanded and yet the varnish is still visible as cloudy white spots on the trailing edge, these will get another sand to remove them entirely.
The up side is the finish on the sections I've done is brilliant, and the board slides sweet as into the case now....
1 down..... 1 to go

The 2nd board shouldn't be as bad, I'll start with the belt sander

and while the sander was out......

I had a couple of 'sections' that were very orange peel in the finish and looked like a massive overspray mess, I was hesitant to go hard on them initially but after a few swipes with the hand block I figured I'd go a tad harder.

the white primer can easily be seen now I've given it a rub, this 'patch' extended back to the front beam (can still see a small patch where I started).... As I went I kept thinking I'd find an ugly repair under all this paint, its got to be here somewhere




and then a brain-storm said .... start up the front and have a light sand there, and that's when the "tree rings" of repaints appeared


green on green on white on green on white on original green


and I kept going.....

and going.....

until it was all gone

and no ugly repair under it all which has stumped me a bit as to why this was done in the first place, a color option that went wrong, was there a white blaze or something in there that was coated over....

what's really odd is this was only on the inner face of one hull, the other is clear of this paint mystery entirely.



yup definitely weird

remember that ugly repair I was looking for ?????

I found it ..... it's on the other hull




been a fairly serious impact here at some stage of her life

the other side of this repair is far smaller (about a 1/4) but similar in the style of repair, you can also see a small repair in the other hull right up at the front edge.


So why did I sand it all back ?????
I had a large area of bad orange peel paint, I have also sanded out the dark green stripes & original name which needed a light sand back from the 120grit I'd used.
I'm not running the block over the old girl like I am with karp, Twice Shy is just getting the orbital sander touch with a final swipe of 320grit, the finish will be smooth and blemish free and I'll have a better idea of what lies beneath it all and that's peace of mind as to what's under me
and
its a major work time saver when I do the real teardown in the off season


today's tasks, 320 sand all the green, prime the repairs and sand back, flip it back over and get some trailer mods on the move
well that's the plan anyway

I saw the pics of Karp in the back ground, whats wrong with it? Why is it quicker to start from scratch on a unknown Mozzy then finish the boat you have been working on for months? Just curious, the season is slipping away...
Darryn
Bullet
1782

Karp is the "good boat", it has far superior equipment and the quality is 2nd to none, I want it to be right and that means time and $$$$ to finish it off to the level I'm after, sure I could rush it through, take a few shortcuts, but even so its still 2~3 months from hitting the water.
There are still a few headache's with Karp that need to be sorted, some of these are fiddly and require expertise I don't have so I'm relying on others and their 'free time' to assist with their services, as a result I have to "fit in" with them, others require time and money at the sail-makers, and I haven't even looked at the trailer or the replacement beams yet !!

Everything I've done with Karp so far has been calculated right out, even the weight of every thing I've added and taken out has been part of the process..... at the end of the day Karp is the pure race boat.

Twice Shy is much closer to making the water, sure I still have some ugliness to get past but its nothing in comparision to Karp's build, with Karp I've used fine hand tools for much of the process, Twice Shy has had a chainsaw thrown at it and it's likely to see it again !!!

If push came to shove I could probably be sailing Twice Shy within a week or two, it wouldn't look sexy n all that but it would be on the water.... Twice Shy is the hack, the one that's not seen a tape-measure of a set of scales and wont until I'm ready to rebuild it properly (once Karp is done most likely)


and

I need to be on the water, I need the practise and to get my head back in the game before I take on Karp and its abilities..... at the moment Karp is far better than I am and I need to get up to speed firstly.

Don't worry, there is still things happening with Karp, the new graffix were sorted recently and the way in which they'll appear on the boat is just about organised.....

Hows it coming? Ready for Sunday?
4 sleeps till race day.
Get it on the water!! lol worry about
Getting it right later.
Al scorpion 1101

Its close.......

I had a little opps with the rear deck on Sunday, gunna cost me a couple of nights to rectify it

w/end after Portland looks like launch day

late Saturday arvo.....





had a spare hour so I had a little tinker.....



don't know about this yet......

its certainly different ....... but then so is the rest of the boat