Is there any advantage to trailering cats with bows forward? or visa versa?

With more weight on the back half of the boat vs the front half, I usually trailer backwards. This is to keep more weight on my hitch. All because of a "short"coming of my trailer.

My boat was trailered backward (transoms first) when I got it and I have always done the same.

One advantage I notice is that, especially with my Nacra 5.5, the trailer can be a lot shorter and thus, the boat can be closer to the towing vehicle which makes it easier to back and park or turn around in tight places.

Also, with the boat trailered backward, the mast is already positioned above the boat and with a simple slide up the mast holder, the mast is stepped and raised in no time flat. Droping the stick is easy too becasue it just plops back in the holder and slides into trailering position. Shrouds always stay on and coil on the trampoline easily.

I am sold on backward cat trailering at least for this boat. See attached picture.

Looks from the picture that you would have light or negative tongue pressure (just looking at the position of the trailer axle relative to the position of the boat). Also wondering about youre trailer lights. They look like they'd be like 10+ feet from the end of the boat. Is that even legal (I thought they were supposed to be within like 3ft)?

There is definitely positive tongue pressure. I would estimate around 60 or 70 lbs on the tongue (just by lifting it) The bows are very light and the CG of the boat is aft of the axle under tow (the trailer is also pretty heavy). I have never seen any regs on light position (anyone know? I am curious now). The hulls are so thin that there is plenty of visibility of the lights from behind. Another pic attached.

I am going to try this on my Hobie 17. Will see if the weight of the mast will keep it up while I attach the bride. Will trap lines keep it from blowing sideways if wind suddenly shifts?

Doug Snell
Hobie 17
Soon to be Nacra A2
www.tcdyc.com\

I like it, thanx for the pics.

I trailer sterns first, too. In fact, many sailors here do it (note the photo). Catman solos up his Mystere 6.0 mast this way. It lets you solo-step very quickly. Here's a photo of me doing the dead lift, starting by sliding the mast forward a few feet onto the step, then lifting from the ~30 degree angle of the mast on the trailer mast crutch. If you can park on a slight beach grade the mast ends up leaning against the side stays with gravity holding it forward. I pull the forestay tight in my hand and step forward to clip it to the bridle. Takes about 10 minutes from keys off to mast up, always solo.

Note my trailer balance. Unlike Alan's Nacra 5.5 photo, my trailer's cross beams support the boat nicely, even with my short trailer. It takes a few adjustments from a bows forward rig but you'll never go back to the old way.

Loading and unloading from the trailer is easy, too. With CatTrax there is no lifting at all, everything solo. It's all about balance.

Fun2Fly1Hull,

Is there any chance of dragging your bows on the street as you start/finish an incline? I'd feel very uncomfortable with my bows extending that far, but it seems as though it works fine. Always amazed at how many ways there are to accomplish the same feat.

I like the idea of a backwards set up for ease of solo mast rising. A couple of questions though…

Alan…as most, if not all, catastrophic hull failures take place just forward of the main beam, doesn’t it make you nervous when you have the entire boat firmly supported aft of the main beam…but the forward section cantilevered out in mid air…every time you hit a bump in the road it would seem to weakening the most vulnerable section of the hull from cyclic loading.

Although the boat is also cantilevered in the bow first position…there is less up and down movement because of its location in relation to the axel and tow vehicle. Comments?

Also, I see in both of the pictures the rudders are off the boats…I never take mine off…If one was to leave the rudders on… and they slipped from the retracted position, to the down sailing position…I would think that would make for a spectacular display of transom removal.

Even if they didn't "fall down" the air flow when towing "bow first" keeps them easly lined up behind the hull with bungie cord. In the stern first position the air flow would make them want to be forced to the 90 degree position...also tending to rip the rudder out of the transom...or the transom out of the boat...so I am concluding that the extra step of attaching/removing the rudders must be factored into the equation.

Other than those two things I really like the idea. o' yea and except for the idea of...if the mast slips you crush the top of the tow vehicle...LOL

Seeker

Rudders:

If you want to leave the rudders on the boat you have to stablize them from falling down and blowing sideways in the wind. Take an 8 foot piece of 1.5 inch PVC. Near each end cut a notch as a saddle for each rudder. With each raised rudder sitting in its notch on the crossbar, run a line from each end of the bar over your mast and suspend the rudders/pole from that. I included a length of bungy to allow for road-bounce. This suspension cost about $2 and takes about 10 seconds to hook on. The rudders can't fall or swing off center.

Guys:

I was going put bows on beach and sterns on back rollers, so I can step mast and have it lean forward to let gravity hold it up while I hook up bridle. Use trap wires to keep it straight.

Seeker:

You are killing your rudders letting them bounce around as you go down the road. Take a little extra time and take them off. Slop is not worth a few extra minutes to put them in the sail box.

Doug Snell
Hobie 17
Soon to be Nacra A2
www.tcdyc.com

Hey Doug

I don't take my rudders off because I usually only trailer two blocks to my launch site
Seeker

Got you.

Just think people who trailer with rudders on are beating them to death, even with pipe trick. Vibration is killing them.

Doug

That's what I thought, but I have yet to see a H16 being trailered without rudders. I didn't start trailering my boat off the coast until last year. Should I be taking the rudders off to trailer?

Well guessing from the looks of your trailer, you probably don't travel long distances, so this may not be too big of a deal. Anyway, I was always under the impression that you are required to at least fly a flag from anything extending a certian distance (like 3ft) from the end of the vehicle. Regardless, I would be concerned about the lack of visibility and difficulty for others to determine the end of your boat at least at night.

sm

I got curious and did some approximate calculations for my boat on my trailer using the picture i posted as a reference for distances from hull cradles and such and with minimal assumptions, I figured that my boat sees a shear loading of approximately 75lbs and a bending moment of 302lb*ft at the back of the rear hull cradle. That’s about the same as pushing on the bows with 37lb while the boat is on the trailer.

Although this work didn't really lead to any useful answer or information for the problem of cyclic loading on a catamaran trailered backward w/ 8ft of cantilevered of bow. Or give me an idea of loads when the trailer goes over a bump, I still found it interesting (as an engineering student) and got to actually make use of statics class. Who da thunk it.

I am not sure that I agree totally (because of lack of evidence) that tralering this way will cause my bows to weaken. It could very well be that catamarans break at this location because it has the potential to see higher that allowable loads when sailing on the edge. But I may consider finding a way to slide my boat a foot or so forward on the trailer anyway to ease my mind now.

I prefer to remove my rudders b/c I am a poor college student w/ carbon rudders and I like them a lot.

Oh, and I do have a red flag. See first picture attached. Now thats just common sense.

I attached some of my calculations for those interested. I really spent way too much time thinking about it but i'm an engineering nerd so whatever.

Guys:

I was VERY competitive when I started sailing. I went from C fleet to A in year and a half. If your 16 is setup right, you should be able to hold the helm with two fingers. The rudders are your life line, that is how you find the GROVVE on a 16. Treat them with respect and they will win you races. Beat them to death on the road and you will ALWAYS be at the back of the fleet. Whether it is 5 miles are 500 you are beating them to death.

Doug Snell
Hobie 17
Soon to be Nacra A2
www.tcdyc.com

Not to mention the beating the castings, pins, gudgeons and transoms take every time the trailer goes over a bump. Bag and box your rudders!

Finally someone agrees with me. Please listen to our advice, especially if you have old EPO's. They are worth there weight in gold. New one will cost you $500 !!! I have been in this since 79. I know from experience. I have been thru 3 boats and always protected my rudders. Would you drive a car with bad steering?

Doug