From the July Issue, 1995
(This is the third of a series of exclusive tuning article on the Hobie
20 by Florida's own Bob Curry, 17 times United States National Champion
� mostly on Hobies; 1983-85 World Champions on the Hobie 14, 1993 and
still the current World Champion on the Mystere 6.0; the original crew
for Randy Smyth in the 1992 Olympic campaign; and the 1994 Alter Cup Champion
� held on Mystere 6.0s. Curry as been a weather forecaster for the USAF
for the past 15 years. He currently lives in the Pensacola Area.)
Sailing the Hobie 20 in Light/Moderate
Wind
by
Bob Curry
As with the first article, "Sailing to Weather in a Breeze"
(March 1995 Issue), let's first define our basics: "Breeze,"
for the Hobie 20, is 18mph+. And the crew weight I use for these tuning
purposes is 325lbs. This weight is a proven winner, and works best for
all wind conditions. Mast rake and diamond tension are as described in
the March 1995 Issue.
1. Barberhaulers
Make sure these are all the way out! When it is windy, the slot has to
remain open. Don't oversheet the jib, as this kills the slot and tries
to submerge the leeward hull. The hull needs to stay out of waves in order
to not crash into them, effectively acting as a brake!
2. Crew Position
It's very important that you try to remain a little forward and not on
the back of the bus. The boat must stay in trim and not drag the transoms.
The place to be is just behind the shrouds in this wind condition.
3. Mast Rotation
Again, it's real important to rotate as far as you possible can. The more
rotation, the lower the course you can steer.
4. Downhaul
Ease it up about 1". This will still allow the prebend in the mast
to flatten the sail. Squeeze more on in the puffs and ease it in the lulls
(same way upwind, isn't it?).
5. Main Traveler
This is by far the most important adjustment downwind on the this boat.
Placing it correctly can gain you lots of boat lengths, both in speed
and in height. My testing has revealed that the fastest setting is two
car lengths down from the hiking strap. This allows the mainsheet to be
twisted (power) and also keeps the slot way open. It allows the boat to
sail a wider groove than if the traveler was further down and the mainsheet
tighter. It is definitely faster in a straight line, and , if you work
the apparent wind just right, is lower on the course. To sum it up, this
setting is lower and faster.
6. Final Thoughts
It seems I say this every time at this point: Keep this thing moving!!
Only in the big puffs and the apparent wind velocity headers do you want
to really take it deep. Don't be too greedy when going low, as the sails
will stall out and it will take you about 5 boat lengths to get it going
again. If you stall of 5 times on a downwind leg, that's 25 boat lengths
closer the competition is going to be to you � or past you.
The next article will be on the "Wild Thing."