Yes, the line from above that runs under the bail and ends with the halyard block.

The strop is anchored to the mast using an eye strap less than 1/2 the distance to mast top. The strap on the alu mast is rivetted. The Carbon mast has an interesting setup...the strap is set so only the eye protrudes out of the mast, the rest is inside. Looks like they ground out a small section, passed the strap into the mast so that only the ends remain inside, rivetted & gobbed it all up with epoxy. Looks very solid...just hope I never need to replace it!

My carbon mast came with a light weight Harken "Ti-Lite" 29mm block fitted. After hearing from other Tdrivers about these blocks blowing up at load (due to the way the strop line is rigged through the block itself...leading to the sides prying apart), I went with a hi-load harken with sheave made for wire line. Pretty much bullet proof, low weight and price.

Personally, I like the stainless bail on the carbon mast...my alu mast had a line bail and I always worried about it wearing out. It never did after 3+ seasons of heavy racing...but the worry never left me :-)



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Thanks Mike! By strop, are you refering to the line from the top of the mast that supports the hlyd blk? Which blk would you recommend there(assuming a hlyd tapered to 1/8")? How are you attaching the strop to the mast? So which bail would you recommend, move the ss one already on the mast, or go with the Amsteel?

Dave

Last edited by Tornado; 01/06/08 12:51 PM.

Mike Dobbs
Tornado CAN 99 "Full Tilt"