Guys,

There are several advantages to the Jib Luff Tensioning System(s) I discribed above for both a "stock" P19 and P19MX w/ bowfoil. And please note, I copied these systems directly from a Nacra 6.0 and N6.0NA ... (Rick Bliss's if I remember correctly!!!!)

1) It allows the Jib to rotate/tack from side to side for more efficency by assuming "proper entry" to the wind w/ the use of a spinacker snap shackle w/ swivel

2) YES, we adjust our jib luff tension on the water during a race between upwind --- downwind.

3) The front of the mast is clean with nothing to hang the jib leads up on.

4) The system(s) discribed above in my earlier post are adjustable on either tack.

Tricks:

1) When I purchased the bowfoil from Performance I made a few easy modifications. First, there were two Harken cheek blocks riveted on the port end ... I re-positioned them ... I moved one to the starboard end of the bowfoil ... I set the boat up w/ the rig tensioned, then I experimented w/ the location of the cheek blocks on the bowfoil. I found that for my forestay angle that the cheek blocks should be mount just behind the front edge of the bowfoil at a point where the cheek block is level/horizontal, OK???? This way the bowfoil does not twist.

Secondly, there are two padeyes riveted to the bowfoil just off the centerline ... one too port, another too starboard. The port one should have a Harken Micro Block on it .... install a Micro Block on the starboard one also.

Now here's how it works ... (from the port side)... Through the camcleat mounted on the crossbar (portside) forward to the "port" cheek block, through that block and over to the port "Micro", through that micro up and through a swiveling block w/ sm shackle attached to the jib, next down and through the starbaord "Micro", continue over to the starboard end cheek block, through/around that cheek block and continue aft to the starboard end of the front crossbar and through a camcleat located there. Note: install the camcleats on the front crossbar just slightly aft of the highest point ... it helps w/ cleating

Also I have a 3X1 set-up on both sides between the bowfoil and crossbar ... anymore I have found to be overkill.

2) Use a "pigtail" on your Jib Leads. Take a piece of 1/8" Amsteel/spectra/vectra (etc) approximently 36"lg .... Tie it to the jib's clew plate ... you should now have two 18"lg leads to tie the jib blocks to ... BUT first tie the two leads together about 6-8" down from the clew ... you should have something that looks like a upside down Y. This will allow you to pull the jib and sheets through much easier. (and reduce your jibsheet length and "clutter" on the tramp.

Dinner's on the table ... got to go

Good Luck
Harry