[quote=Rockport]The boat will be singlehanded some of the time, otherwise with the all 90 lbs of my daughter as crew. Mainly club racing Friday evenings. My thought with the foil was to
continue to use the small jib with the foil set below the height of the present bridle wires.
lowering the jib tack will mean you have to move your jib sheeting point
IMO, This is going to be a very busy boat for club racing with the jib. You daughter will be swallowed up with all of the spagetti on the tramp. If you were distance racing... it would be OK.
Unless your club sets a close reach leg every time... I promise the boat will be much more fun with main and spin. The only way to clean up the deck is with a self tacker... $$$ which also requires a re cut jib $$.
But at a height which would still allow proper sheeting.
lowering the jib tack will mean you have to move your jib sheeting point on the tramp and you load up the hulls.
The big big advantage for you with main and spin in club racing is visiblity. If you use the bow foil the chute will be right on the deck and you will not have much visiblity. Very stressful with those laser speed bumps out on the course.
Kite is same size as F16. Pole is carbon 12 ft sail board mast(two piece)tapers from 2.5" to 1". I also have an Alum 1" pole 12' but felt the carbon would be stronger.
Wow... 2.5 inches at the base will be a tough fitting to find for your front beam.
Was planning on setting the pole like the F18ht bringing all lines to current position of the bridle wires.
People drill a hole in the bows because it makes the load needed to prebend the pole tip lower and the angle from the bow tip allows you to keep the pole in column a bit easier. You might reconsider this when you get it all together. A lot has to do with the distance of the front beam relative to the bows and the width of the boat.
Setting the mast height between the spreader & tip. May change to a third of the way. I will probably add a furler at a later date so as to be able to decrease sail area forward.
Both 5.2 hull failures were forward of the front beam at the
bulkhead. I attributed this to the pole height being to high
& pulling the bows into the center?? One spin may have been oversize for the boat.
No... High pole means less load pinching on the bows. The Tornado class specifies a minimum height above the decks for the pole at the plane of the bridal to make sure the boat holds up and the T has a very substantial sub deck.
My thought was by adding a foil I could decrease this pull to center? Distribute the jib/spin load at the foil, which would in turn keep the hulls with limited toe in. Less stress at the main beam. Wrong thinking?
the jib is a bigger load on pinching the bows.. especially when you sheet hard going to weather. Lowering the jib is the worst thing you can do. Also the bridal is not light. It puts weight where you don't want it... on the bows of a boat that has just enough buancy.
I have taken the time to remove the forward deck & epoxy additional cloth at this bulkhead. Probably over kill on my part.
That should do it... nevertheless... You might take the beam off, (it's always good to unbolt the boat every year or so ... just in case you half to do it one year.. frozen bolts are a REAL pain in the butt.
I had my 10 foot wide tornado rigged the way you are going for about a month before I went for the self tacker...there is a lot of string on the boat with a tramp sheeted jib and a spinnaker.
Split the fore bridles at the hounds to your bow tangs., Add a spectra line for the pole center. (Hounds to mid pole which holds pole up) Make sure your pole stays will not allow it to get out of column or rotate with the side stays. Drill some holes in the bows... fill with epoxy, redrill and put some pre bend into the pole with the spectra pole tips stays .. enough so that you can lift the boat with the pole but not invert the pole. you also need this bow tie point for the snuffer hoop the split bridles makes it easier to snuff the midpole chute with no forestay in the way.. It's also easier to jibe with out the bridal to drag the sheets over.
Set the pole tip (with required pre bend) so that you get the right luff tension on the spinaker. you want to be able to grab the luff in your hand and then rotate your hand 90 degrees. Adjust the pole supports accordingly.
with a double ratchet (one at the shroud and one ratchet on the front beam... your daughter should be able to hand hold the spin... A power assist by you when needed can help her out. If you need more power up wind... you could get a square top main which adds back some lost sail area.
Of course... if she drives... you manage the main and spin and you are very fast.
