I'd imagine it's quite nearly identical to the track on the Prindle 19. I've now done both of mine, and for what it's worth, here's what I did. For one thing, the track was tight where the jib slider track is; it was only coming loose at the front and back ends. The aft end was easy: I just drilled off the heads of all the rivets that were loose, punched the bodies thru into the hull, then ran duct tape along the hull under the track. I turned the boat upside down and reached a pot of thickened West System up thru the port hole. (I had removed the ring first, because it needed resealed anyway. On the second hull, I didn't remove it, and it worked just as well.) Anyway, after smearing the slush along the inside of the track, I took a piece of glass tape, two inches wide and long enough to reach from the front of the rear beam as far forward as I could reach. I wet it out, rolled it up, inserted it carefully thru the hole in the hull, and rolled it into place. I added a little more West epoxy (I had some left) and smeared it all in really well. When it set up, I redrilled the holes in line with the holes in the track. I used stainless rivets and 3/16" stainless washers on the inside. It has held up great.
The forward tracks were a bit greater of a problem. I cleared away the remains of the old rivets, much the same way as aft, but then I used a syringe to shoot very thick West System up into each rivet hole, putting a piece of tape over each to keep it from falling back out. After it cured, I redrilled as before but reassembled with aluminum rivets. Monel might have been a better choice, because it pulls a little harder, but definitely don't use stainless. I have most of a season on one hull, and a couple regattas on the other. They are both still tight, and I end up with much less water in the hulls than before. I had about a cup in one hull after 7 hours on the water, and maybe a quart in the other.

Hope this helps.
sail fast
AT