Below is an updated tuning guide I put together after the 2008 North Americans. If I were to sail the boat, this is exactly how I would run the set up. In combination with Curry's guide you should have a good starting point.

Tuning and sailing techniques for the F-17SW

Boat set up:
Mast: The boat seemed to perform well through a wide range of conditions, from 2-20knots with the mast set at 1 5/8” of spreader rake and tension from 37-42 on the newer loose gauge. I recommend a tension of 39 for most every condition up to 18 knots. Above 18 knots, increase tension to 42. The boat does not respond well to more tension. Maximum depower can be achieved with down haul as long as your mast has at least the above mentioned tension. Tension below 39 should only be used for heavier skippers or in very bumpy, light conditions.
Rake: The Rig should be raked approximately 14 inches behind the attachment point of the upper rudder arm.
Tension: As tight as you can get it with one man hanging from the trapeze. Never tension your rig with the main sheet.
Spinnaker: The luff should be adjusted to be a tight as possible. No more than 45 degrees of twist should be allowed when grabbing and twisting the luff with one hand.
On the water:
Beating: The new rig likes to depower early! Do not hesitate to pull on the downhaul and rotator. Maximum power is with your mast rotator pointing between your rear beam and side stay, closer to the side stay but not pointing directly at it. The carbon rig is notorious for over sheeting in lighter breeze however it is almost not an issue with the SW rig. Always keep your main tension tight the blocks should always be directly over each other, never any deflection between the top and bottom main sheet block. Once you are on the wire and begin to depower keep as much tension as possible. Once you’re on the wire you should also prepare to begin depowering steps. 1) Increase downhaul, assuming that there are no wrinkles in the sail, increase down haul tension by 50%. Trim your down haul for the consistent breeze and use the main to depower in gusts. 2) Mast rotation should be brought back once you have increased the downhaul. I recommend mast rotation at the leeward edge of the tramp pocket stitching. 3) As the wind increases continue to increase down haul. A 180 lbs skipper should have max downhaul in 15 knots! 4) After you have reached max downhaul (two hands and all your strength) move your mast rotator further aft, maximum mast rotator depower is recommended at 2 inches inside the outside edge of the tram pocket stitching. Play the main! Boat speed can be hugely increased by consistently playing the main. Do not keep it in the cleat and pinch in the puffs!! The best method is to anticipate the puff, have you main uncleated and release sheet as you head up slightly. The gust should be completed with an adjustment back to proper course and adding tension back to the main. In conditions gusting above 18 knots I recommend droping your traveler 6-8 inches.


Running:
Set your spinnaker first! Do not release downhaul or mast rotation until your spinnaker is up and sheeted. Whoever has the spinnaker up first has the advantage. One the spinnaker is flying release all down haul and mast rotation. If you are not flying a hull you should position you body just ahead of the dagger board sitting on the tramp. I do not recommend raising a dagger board, you will lose more trying to adjust your boards up and down then you will gain from the minor reduction in drag, unless conditions are very light. Additionally the leeward board should remain down to facilitate flying a haul as low and early as possible. Main tension should be eased slightly from close hauled and 6-8 inches of traveler should be used in all conditions except for extremely light winds where less main sheet tension should be used. If the wind is not strong enough to induce maximum rotation use a positive rotator or your foot on the boom to achieve it.
As the wind increases you should move back on the tramp. I always sit just inside the hull on the tramp in conditions up to 10 knots. Do not “wild thing “the boat. It is only beneficial to do so if you understand the mark. In conditions over 10 knots you should be sit as far out on the hull as possible leaning back. You will be able to fly the hull don’t worry. You are using this body position to facilitate maximum forward acceleration from the spinnaker. Forward acceleration is more important than vertical lift. Jibe the boat with speed, if you slow down going into a jibe in breeze you are much more likely to flip the boat coming out of the jibe, this sounds risky but it works. Stay in clear air and keep an eye out for the puffs!