Jim is right, no normal sized person can right an Al mast 5.5U by themselves, without a righting bar.
You are missing the righting beam, 2 blocks and some ropes. I removed the beam because unless someone shows you how to use it, you can hurt yourself. Unluckily for you I just reused the beam to build a dolly for my Laser. I have attached an early sketch I made of this
First check the bracket. It should freely rotate around the dolphin striker. It is made of epoxy glass. So make sure it has not deteriorated
The beam is easy to build. Glue 2 1x3x8 spruce or fir boards together with epoxy. Drill a hole half the width of the beam from one end (see attached drawing) and round the end of the beam around the hole. The hole should be the same diameter as the one in the bracket. Bolt the beam to the bracket and check the length. You will want to cut it so the end of the beam is about an inch inside the rear cross beam. (I used a tight bungee loop, tied to the lacings, to hold the beam in placed when it was not in use). Once you have cut the beam to length, drill 2 9/16 holes about 6 and 7 inches from the end you just cut. Round the edges of the beam. The sharp edges will hurt your hands. Now cover the beam with epoxy and after it is dry give it a couple of coats of white paint.
You will need to attach two plain bearing blocks to the front cross beam, one on each side near the inside of the hull. I believe I tied them to where the dolphin striker strap attaches to the cross beam.
Now the lines. You need 2. They have to be long enough to go from the Harken cleat on the cross beam that controls the rotation, through the block you just attached, back to the end of the righting beam. I ran the line through one of the holes in the end of the beam and tied a knot in it. Repeat for the other side.
Now when the system is not in use. You have a beam that is attached to the dolphin striker at one end and held to the underside of the tramp by a bungee loop at the other. There are 2 lines. They run from the end of the beam to blocks on each side of the front cross beam. tie a knot in the line just where it exits the block so it will not pull back through the block. When the lines were not in use I think I tied the ends together above the beam.
Now you have flipped the boat. You are standing on the inside of the hull under the tramp. Untie the ends of the lines. Feed the upper one through the rotation cleat. You do not have to pull the rotator line out. Just uncleat it and feed the righting bar line under it though the cleat. You will end up with 2 lines going through one cleat. Don' pull it tight yet. Release the bungee and fold beam out so that it is parallel to the mast. Now pull the line tight. Grab the beam and move out to the end. The idea is to end up hanging from the end of the beam with your feet out of the water. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES LET YOURSELF GET ATTACHED TO BEAM. Don't hook your trap harness to the line. Don't get tangled. If you do you will end up 8 ft under water when the boat comes up. I did it once, it was the scariest 5 seconds of my life.
