Well, the Quattro is a stitch-and-glue design done in plywood, which is much easier to build than a strip-plank design on a frame. Especially when I don't have much work-working experience and I'll be working in (at best) a 40' cargo container, or (at worst) an open-sided pole-and-tarp 'car-port' in the back-yard.

I could add a 2"-wide plywood 'side-stringer' to the inner side of each hull. It would be about 2/3 up the hulls and perpendicular to the inwards-pull of the bridle-wires or dual forestays.I'll have it run the full-length of each hull and slot the bulkheads to allow it to remain un-cut. I imagine this could add a lot of strength to the hulls.

Also:
1) I think the Quattro hull design would be stronger than the Taipan design, due to the V-shape having the most material located at the keel. Round-bottom hull shapes have just as much (er, little...) material on the bottom of the hull as the sides.
2) V-shape hulls pierce waves better. The difference in ride between my G-Cat and my friends Prindle 18-2 and Hobie 18 is very noticeable in the wave-action. I tend to punch and slice through where they pound the heck out of their boats.

I don't see where the skeg design is going to be affected by canted hulls. This is being designed as a severe-weather craft, so if I can't be flying a hull while out on the trapeze... I'll be out sailing my G-Cat instead. This should keep the skegs more verticly-oriented.

How heavy was your Q16 in comparison to similarly-sized boats? If this is not a weight-friendly construction method, I very well might have to try strip-planking instead