Let me start with, I use a method similar to Jake's most of the time. Sometimes, that type of repair is not strong enough so it's a good idea to know what the MIL standard method(or what it was when I took the class 20 years ago)

The differences are; 1) you need an inner plug at least 5 times the inside diameter of what you are repairing and 2) you need to taper the ends of the tube you are joining 8:1 or at least 1/2 in on each side.

The preferred plug is a section of the tube you are repairing. Cut a slit lengthwise in the tube so you can coat it with epoxy and force it inside. If you don't have any scrap tube, will have to use whats available or make something. Use a 90/10 epoxy /cut carbon fiber mixture by volume to glue the plug in place. Coat the inside of the tube and the outside of the plug

Fill the tapered section with a mixture of epoxy and cut carbon fibers 50/50 by volume (compress the carbon fibers when measuring)

I have made plugs by finding something about .5mm smaller than the ID to be repaired. Then make a mold by wrapping whatever you found with 3 layers of release film and then about 5 layers of electrical tape. Fill the mold with about 60/40 cut carbon fibers and epoxy. Compress the mixture with a dowel or something until you see liquid epoxy on the top of the mixture. It is not the best but it will work.

This fairly fresh in my because I just finished repairing a Marstom tiller that broke at my previous repair. This repair is usually stronger than the original tube, so it will break somewhere else. I have a tiller that is probably 100% repairs, it hasn't broken in years.