OK so when you are about to go out just count the waves in each set as waves come to the beach in sets. Usually with an established pattern like say 7 waves and a break then 8 waves and a break and say 5 waves and a break once you have a count you can bet they will repeat themselves. As the waves come in the breaks are the water from all those waves washing back out that's were the under-tow uaually is and that is what an established surfer will look for to paddel out in and that is were you want to sail. As the current flows down the beach and there is always a shore curent watch for the under-tow to reach your area and make your move then and yes you mite leave the beach facing a very large wave or two but it will die off before it gets to shore and us the river or under-tow to guide you out. That is for very large surf but remember foam will not float a boat you have to try to stay away from the foamy spots and of course be ready for anything and yes it is important to get a board in the water as soon as possible to establish a grip on the water or you will slide sideways and lose speed and speed is important in going through the waves. The other factor which there are many is to keep your bows down to punch through the waves and not go over them or you will go over backwards. In light air conditions again speed is one of the most important factors so if there is not much wind take advantage of every opportunity and gain speed as offten as posible like inbetween the waves fall off and gain speed and then come up and punch through instead of trying to go over with out speed, you will be pushed backwards and break ruder castings or even ruders..... Have fun and be safe....OH and one more thing it is best when ever possible to hit the waves head on and not at an angle....