Mike, see my vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMKThlRmCGE&list=UL at about 1.5 min.

I have a fixed pole sticking out in the front (I used a loose pole fixed with rope for about 1 year, works also).
So, this is my pulling bar which hold the cat balanced.

Because my mast is sticking out far at the back, I normally have a negative pressure at my connection point from the tow. But that gives no problems with the relative low speed.

Bacho, the T-fittings (cross-connectors) for the 50mm tubes are of glassfiber-reinforced nylon (http://www.cadkat.com/Tube_connecto..._polyamide_plastic_one_side_slotted.html ) which are pressed together with one 16cm bold (8mm) through and through.
The crossconnectors for the 50mm tube to the 20mm aluminium axes (hollow, 5mm thick wall) are from aluminium and work with built-in clamps.

See http://www.buisklemmen.nl/aluminium/kd-50x25.html


The problems which I had with the rollerbearings of my old cattrax had not so much to do with greasing. The Eurotrax rollerbearing is dimensioned with a lot of space for incoming water/sand.

The real problem are the transversely (axial) forces of the bearing rollers to the sides, to the distance bushing and wheel fixationclamps which hold the rim on his place. Eventually every part eats the other up and the whole bearing system starts to wear out critically.
When I used (on advice of the manufacturer)iron spacerdisks for that reason, one iron disk had grinded itself after a few months through the Alutube itself.

My cat fell down on the street with 40km/h!

In hindsight its always clear: a normal cattrax is not designed for road use and/or long distances. Rebuilding the trax was in my case forcefully necessary.