Gary,
I'm very sorry to hear about your minor setback.
But unless the failure is catastrophic this is just a minor set back and a good opportunity to make those hulls bullet proof.
I agree with Darryl's post entirely.

However you eventually decide to affect the repair consider the two main problems would be column failure on the inside hull side between the bridle and the main beam and ripping the bridle fitting out because there is either no bulkhead at the bridle or a bulkhead that is not designed to take the bridle type loading.

If you have not already formulated a repair plan I would like to make the following suggestions to get you thinking.

Given the hulls cross sectional shape I would cut the hull open from the bottom near its widest point. This will give you good working room.

I would cut a section out between a little forward of the centre case (200mm) and main beam bulkhead leaving a good section in place around the main bulkhead.
This will save having to disturb the bulkhead and will allow the remaining section of hull to keep the sides true.

If possible I would leave another section in place half way between the main beam and bridle. The cut would stop a little short of the bridle but close enough to put in a bulkhead and secure the bridle fitting to it. if one isn't already there.

If the hull has just delaminated repair would be quite simple. Inject resin and through bolt or screw with slightly flexable plates either side to apply pressure.

Personally I would then dril the inside skin at intervalls and inject resin around where the sub deck was about to be fitted.
To securely tie the two laminates together.
Glass in the sub deck from near the bridle to back past the main beam.
Relacing the panels that have been cut out is quite simple.
You can make up a fibreglass plates to form a lap bond on the inside and once the panel is bonded in place grind a taper into the outside laminate and glass that back together.

Even with now stronger hulls you might like to consider the height of your bridle.
The lower the bridle the higher the loading on the inside hull wall between the bridle and main beam and inwards loading on the bridle fitting.

You could even go to a system similar to marstrom are using on the M18 and M20 but without the carbon tubes. Instead use a line from the mast to the pole around 1.5m up from the mast base to behind the shuffer.
This line can also help give positive rotation to your mast.

Having said all that most problems have more than one sollution. In many cases it just gets down to personal preference.I have done nothing more than express my preference in the hope that it gets you thinking if you have not already started.

Once again I would like to stress the importance of looking at this as an opportunity to make the hulls bullet proof.

This experience will make every win in the future all that much sweeter.

Good luck.
Regards,
Phill