For information sake,I just purchased and installed a Tiger Spin kit and mid pole snuffer on my 5.5, and the wires and length of pole are a perfect fit.No modifications are required when adding a spin kit to the Mystere.

any pics?

Heres a photo of the spin lock mounted on the mast.The spin halyard runs through it down to a pully mounted on the cross beam next to the masts base mount. This arrangement locks the spin lock when pulling the sail up. Make sure that the spin lock has its angled base installed under it or it wont lock.

Here us a photo of the spinnaker Im using.Im experimenting and purchased a cheap Macgregor 21/22 symmetrical spinnaker, as most winds in our area blow inland and Im not racing and wanted a sail that would take me directly back home in light winds without to much gybing. I had 2 rings sewn on it and 2/3rds of the way to the top a couple of small holes put in to tie off the retreval line. The retreval line runs from this point of the sail, down into the snuffer ring and out the end of the snuffer bag to the deck. It continues as one line through the pulling on the cross beam,up through the spin lock to the top of the mast and becomes the haulyard.

A photo of how the snuffer pole fixes to the cross beam.Note that I put tape under the stainless where it come up against the cross beam to keep it away from the aluminum.

I found that the sheets jam when tacking the boat. They tend to jam under the furler as the sail drags them across in light winds and it can be frustrating, so I drilled 2 small holes in the furlers cage and tied a bit of thin line in. I then tied bungee to this line and ran it forward to the spin pole so that the lines drag over this point now and it works better!
I then drilled a small hole just under the furlers block and tied a support line (thin static line)down to the spin pole to help support it.

I attached the snuffer wires with a shackle.They come stock as the perfect length from Hobie and I didnt have to modify them. What a fluke!
The one line in the photo that has the purple static line attached goes from the point in the photo to the snuffer ring to add support to it so it doesnt twist the ring when under snuffing pressure.

The cross beam has the (red line) spinnaker outhaul line (cleat)attached next to the furler cleat. Im using differnt color lines so the crew can find them faster,as things become messy with all the ropes on deck.

another pic of that snuffer ring support line. I did air-craft wire with crimp on sleaves wherever possible so that I dont have to keep replacing static line as it weathers over the years.

The out-haul line (red) that comes back to the cross beam cleat.

very cool thanks

QUESTION REGARDING SPIN CONNECTION AT TOP OF MAST:
My Spinnaker is hoisted by the head of the sail to the top of the mast through a pulley. This pulley is secured at the top of the mast, not with a mast tang, but with a vertical line from an eye and a horizontal line. The horizontal line holds the pulley close to the mast and is threaded through two holes in the sail track. The unfortunate part is....when the sail is hoisted the load on this horizontal line breaks it. The pulley is then just suspended by the eye near the top of the mast and risks (by its load of pressure) snapping the mast as it bends dramatically. Has anyone used stainless steel line for this horizontal line? Any recommendations?

You need to use a better piece of line. Vectran or Spectra, etc.

I agree that the spinnaker halyard block bail line needs to be made of rope with higher abrasion resistance. (My attempt at proper use of the words "line" and "rope.") I have never broken one that is made of "Amsteel." Mine is either 3mm or 4mm size.

GARY

One other thing, don't ease the main off much with the chute up or you risk breaking the mast.

Thanks for the tip! Any advice on how you protect the pulley as it rotates around the mast from damaging the masts aluminum or its coating. I put bands of tape across the mast under the pully and after my first sail with he chute out it appears to have scrapped the coating. I just want to keep the 5.5 in good shape as I do things... any recommendations?Once this is done I can sail knowing its bomb proof, and not having to turn the boat over all of the time to repair it!
Regular vinyl tape deosnt cut it......

can i ask, how far down from the top of your mast is the block (measured at the top of sheave)?

Ill try to measure it next time I have the boat on its side. Its low......aproximatley 1ft above the jibs tang. I know its lower than most because I wanted to try a symmetrical sail I picked up cheap from a Mcgregor sailboat. It fits really well for what I wanted it for. Im in an area that startin out from the beach we tack all day until we are out in somewhat open water. At the end of the day I wanted to sail more down wind,than zip back and forth on a gybe for speed but never pointing to home. In the first tests of this sail I was exremely surprised how tigh I can pull the luff and in fact got some hang on speed as I call it with the crew at the rear of the boat trying to stop a pitch pole.Not entering races Im not as much driven to meet standards and want to experiment with what sails do. I have located a 21 sq meter Tiger sail that I will fashion on later for a bit of diversity. I know asymmetrical will allow me to tack, but I find the boat points well and has great speed now without increasing it. 15 knots of wind seems to create a sweet smooth ride. What do you think?

so you dont jybe at all with your symetrical? i love gybing with my spin....

I had a tiger spin on my 5.5. it was good for learning... but i am glad i moved up to a big spin (tornado)

Would you happen to have any photos of your spin up? Id like to see how high up the mast it runs.....
Any lines on a used tornado spinnaker?